Inn bridge
Opposite Innstraße 5 / Innrain 1
Worth knowing
Man könnte sagen, die Innbrücke war die Geburtshelferin Innsbrucks. Sie ist Namensgeber für die Stadt und war lange Zeit die einzige Brücke, die die heutige Altstadt mit den älteren Stadtteilen St. Nikolaus und Mariahilf verband. Nicht umsonst ist sie bis heute im Stadtwappen vertreten. Die Innbrücke war es auch, die der Stadt ihren Wohlstand verschaffte. Die Grafen von Andechs erkannten die Bedeutung des Knotenpunkts zwischen Nord und Süd im Warenverkehr und ließen eine Brücke über den Inn bauen. Das hatte seinen Preis für die Händler. An der Innbrücke wurde Zoll auf Waren eingehoben, die nach Innsbruck kamen. Nicht nur füllte der Zoll die Stadtkasse, die Bürger genossen auch die Passage der Händler, die ansonsten im Alpenraum nur schwer verfügbare Güter teils zum Verkauf in der Stadt anbieten mussten. Wein, Bier, Fleisch, Salz, Gewürze, Textilien – Innsbruck hob sich dank des Warenverkehrs über die Innbrücke vom Umland ab. Für die Kaufleute war die Brücke eine sicherere, zuverlässigere und schnellere Möglichkeit den Fluss zu passieren.
1871 wurde die regelmäßig von Hochwasser zerstörte Holzbrücke durch eine von nur zwei Betonpfeilern getragene, 83 m lange Eisenfachwerkbrücke ersetzt. Damals hatte Innsbruck auf Grund der Eisenbahn und der Neuerungen im Transportwesen seine Bedeutung als Umschlagplatz verloren, der zunehmende innerstädtische Verkehr machte die Renovierung aber dringend notwendig. Auch der Innsteg östlich der großen Brücke, der eingerichtet wurde, um die damals durchaus noch übliche Fahrt mit der Fähre über den Inn endgültig zu ersetzen, wurde im selben Jahr gebaut. Bis dahin waren noch Flöße mit Waren, vor allem Holz aus dem Tiroler Oberland, am Inn unterwegs, die in St. Nikolaus anlegten. Der Waltherpark, früher Innpark, vor dem Turnusvereinshaus wurde nach Abriss des Floßabladeplatzes errichtet. 1982 wurde die Innbrücke in ihre aktuelle Form gebracht. Die letzte Renovierung und Verbreiterung fand 2023 statt.
Ein besonderes Schmankerl Innsbrucker Kulturgeschichte befindet sich mittig auf der Innbrücke. Das Kruzifix des Thaurer Künstlers Rudi Wach, das Christus in allzu menschlicher Art und Weise nackt und ohne Wunden zeigt, sollte 1986 aufgestellt werden. Unter dem Druck einer Unterschriftenkampagne besonders frommer Tiroler musste dieses „Skandalwerk“ bis 2007 im Volkskunstmuseum ausharren, bis Innsbrucks erste Bürgermeisterin Hilde Zach es doch noch aufstellen ließ, offiziell um dem Himmlischen für die Verschonung der Stadt vor dem Hochwasser von 2005 zu danken.
The Counts of Andechs and the foundation of Innsbruck
The 12th century brought economic, scientific and social prosperity to parts of Europe and is regarded as a kind of early Renaissance in the Middle Ages. The Crusades led to increased exchange with the cultures of the Middle East, which were more developed in many respects. Arab scholars brought translations of Greek thinkers such as Aristotle to Europe via southern Spain and Italy. Roman law was rediscovered. The first universities were founded in Italy. Agricultural knowledge allowed the development of towns and larger settlements. One of these settlements was located north of the Wilten monastery between the Inn river and the Nordkette mountain range.
When the Western Roman Empire collapsed in the 5th century, Bavarian tribes took control of the area that is now Innsbruck. They were happy to take over church institutions and structures, as clerics were often the only ones who knew the scriptures. In the time of Charlemagne (748 - 814), the feudal system began to establish itself in Central Europe. The dukes of Bavaria were feudal lords of the German kings and emperors, whose empire extended over large parts of central Europe and northern Italy.
Tyrol had two low Alpine crossings, the Reschen Pass and the Brenner Pass, which were important for the imperial connection between the German lands in the north and the lands in Italy. In 1024, Conrad II, a rival of the Bavarian dukes, was elected king. In order to bring these two Alpine crossings away from his Bavarian rivals and under the control of the Church, which was closer and more loyal to the emperor, Conrad II granted the territory of Tyrol to the bishops of Brixen and Trento as a fief in 1027. In order to administer their lands and exercise jurisdiction, the bishops needed local representatives, the so-called bailiffs. The bailiffs of the Bishop of Brixen were the Counts of Andechs. They came from the area around the Bavarian Ammersee. They administered the central part of the Inn Valley, the Wipp Valley and the Eisack Valley for the bishops. Over the next 200 years, this Bavarian princely family was to become the birthplace of the city of Innsbruck.
Today, Innsbruck stretches along both sides of the Inn. In the 11th century, this area was under the influence of two lords of the manor. To the south of the Inn, the Wilten monastery had its lordship. The area north of the Inn belonged to the Counts of Andechs. While the southern part of the town around the monastery was used for agriculture early on, the alluvial area of the unregulated river could not be cultivated before the High Middle Ages and was sparsely populated. The Andechs family founded the market here in 1133 Anbruggen and connected the northern and southern banks of the Inn via a bridge. The unusable agricultural land had become a trading centre. The bridge greatly facilitated the movement of goods in the Eastern Alps. The customs revenue generated from trade between the German and Italian towns allowed the settlement to prosper. Innsbruck's first surviving coat of arms dates back to 1267 and shows the Inn bridge on the stone boxes used to secure it at the time.
Anbruggen grew rapidly, but the space between the Nordkette and the Inn was limited. In 1180, Berchtold V of Andechs therefore acquired a piece of land on the south side of the Inn from Wilten Monastery. This was the starting signal for Innsbruck. In the course of building the city wall, the Counts of Andechs had the Andechs Castle and moved their ancestral seat from Merano to Innsbruck. This settlement also grew rapidly and sometime between 1187 and 1204 the people of Innsbruck were able to enjoy city rights. The official date of foundation is often taken as 1239, when the last Count of Andechs, Otto VIII, confirmed the town charter in a document. At this time, Innsbruck was already the mint of the Andechs family and would probably have become the capital of their principality. But things turned out differently. Otto died in 1248 without descendants. The Counts of Tyrol took control of the Inn Valley and the city. They made Merano the first capital of the province of Tyrol.
The power of geography
The first thing that strikes every visitor to Innsbruck are the mountains that seem to encircle the city. This mountain world is not only beautiful to look at, but has always influenced many things in the city. It starts with seemingly small things like the weather, as the contemporary view from days gone by proves:
""The warm wind or scirocco is a special phenomenon. It comes from the south, bounces off the northern mountains and falls with force into the valley. It likes to cause headaches, but it melts the winter snow quickly and promotes fertility immensely. This makes it possible to plant maize in Innsbruck""
This weather phenomenon may take its name from Scirocco and traffic was not yet a major problem in 1851. However, just like the Innsbruck car driver today, the blacksmith in the old town in 1450 and the legionnaire sent from central Italy to the Alps in 350 were certainly complaining about the warm downdraught, which seems to drive everyone crazy several times a month. In the past, people were happy about the warm air that melted the snow in the fields, but today, tourism experts moan about the apery ski slopes on the Nordkette.
The location between the Wipptal in the south and the Nordkette mountain range not only influences the frequency of migraines, but also the leisure activities of the people of Innsbruck, as Beda Weber recognised. "The locals are characterised by their cheerfulness and charity, they especially love shore excursions in the beautiful season." One may talk about Kindness and benevolence The Innsbruck locals argue that excursions in the form of hiking, skiing or cycling are still very popular today. No wonder, Innsbruck is surrounded by mountains. You can be in the middle of the forest within a few minutes from anywhere in the city. Young people from all over Europe spend at least part of their time studying at the University of Innsbruck, not only because of the excellent professors and facilities, but also to spend their free time on the slopes, mountain bike routes and hiking trails without having to miss out on urban flair. This is both a blessing and a curse. As a major employer and training centre, the university boosts the economy, while at the same time the cost of living in the city, which cannot grow any further because it is squeezed between the mountains, increases due to students from abroad.
Innsbruck's rise to become the political centre of Tyrol in the 15th century is also largely due to the city's location. The former provincial capital of Merano had no chance against the junction between the Brenner, Scharnitz and Achen Pass due to its remoteness. The Brenner Pass is very low and makes it relatively easy to cross the Alpine belt that winds around Italy's northern border. In the days before the railway brought goods and people effortlessly from A to B, crossing the Alps was hard work and the Brenner Pass was a welcome relief.
The location between Italy and Germany also favoured tourism, which was able to gain a foothold early on. Travellers appreciated the combination of easy accessibility, urban infrastructure and Alpine flair. With the development of the mountainous region by railway, it was easy to travel to and spend leisure time in the mountains or at one of the spas without having to forego the comforts of city life.
Alongside the mountains, the rivers played a key role in Innsbruck's development. Since the time of Maximilian, drinking water was piped into the city from the Nordkette, while the Inn and Sill were responsible for everything else. Washing was done on the Inn, waste was disposed of and cattle were led to the watering place. Goods were shipped on rafts on the Inn from the west to Innsbruck and from Innsbruck to the east. The Inn bridge brought customs revenue into the city coffers. The smaller river that crosses Innsbruck was just as important as the Inn. Where the Sill leaves the Sill Gorge today, the Sill Canal was created at the bottom of Wilten Abbey to supply the city with water. Initially intended primarily for fire protection, the businesses along this man-made canal soon utilised the flowing water to operate mills for power generation. The Small Sill flowed almost 3 kilometres from Wilten to the city centre to the area of today's Ing.-Etzel-Straße in Saggen and Dreiheiligen to the Pradler Bridge, where it rejoined the main river. For almost 700 years, the Sill Canal supplied Innsbruck with water and energy. It was not until the 1970s that the last parts of it disappeared after bombing damaged it during the Second World War.
Last but not least, it is the wide valley basin that favoured the development of Innsbruck. While the farmers in the higher-lying side valleys faced harsh conditions, the Inn Valley offered fertile soil and sufficient land for livestock farming and agriculture. The reclamation of the landscape allowed the town to grow. In the 13th century, as in many parts of Europe, the area around Innsbruck was subject to major and long-term human intervention in nature for economic purposes. Until the High Middle Ages, the Inn Valley had been much more heavily forested. The growth of cities and the rise in population also increased the demand for food. Contrary to what is often portrayed, the Middle Ages were not a primitive time of stagnation, during which people prayed to the Almighty and exposed themselves to the inexplicable forces of nature. It was a dynamic time, especially from the 12th century onwards, when people no longer relied on prayers and God's grace to escape the effects of regular crop failures. Innovations such as three-field farming made it possible to feed the agriculturally unproductive urban population, known in modern parlance as the Overhead would call it. Corn, which Beda Weber considered worthy of mention in Innsbruck's cityscape as early as 1851, is still growing vigorously and even today gives large areas on the outskirts of the city an agricultural flavour.