South Tyrolean settlement Wilten West

Speckbacherstrasse / Egger-Lienz-Strasse

Worth knowing

In 1939, the property developer Neue Heimat (note: today Neue Heimat Tirol) built several apartment blocks in Wilten, Pradl, Reichenau and Saggen, which are still known today as the South Tyrolean housing estates. The largest of these projects was built under the direction and realisation of Theodor Prachensky and Jakob Albert between Egger-Lienz-Straße and Franz-Fischer-Straße. At first glance, the architecture may appear monotonous and unspectacular, but if you consider the dimensions and significance of the project from the perspective of the 1930s and 40s, you quickly realise that it was not a housing estate that was created here, but an entire district.

The two to three-storey buildings are grouped around spacious, interconnected inner courtyards. The individual courtyards are bordered by low, stone walls, giving the entire ensemble the character of an inner-city fortress. The entrance to the estate from Stafflerstrasse to Speckbacherstrasse, with its neo-Romanesque columns, represents a small city gate through which one enters the estate. As with the Pembau block, Prachensky probably also wanted this bay window to represent a link to Innsbruck's history, as the composition is very reminiscent of the Golden Roof in the historic city centre. Höttinger Breccia, a speciality of Innsbruck, was also used as the building material for the passageway.

After the First World War, the historic province of Tyrol was divided at the Brenner border. The German-speaking population of South Tyrol suffered more and more reprisals under Mussolini's fascist regime. This led to disagreements between Benito Mussolini and Adolf Hitler. Mussolini wanted to Italianise the German-speaking South Tyroleans, whereas Hitler had promised to unite all German-speaking ethnic groups. In 1939, the two dictators agreed to give the German-speaking population of South Tyrol the opportunity to resettle from Italy to the German Reich. The propaganda in favour of the resettlement under the motto "Home to the Reich" was effective. The majority of German-speaking South Tyroleans chose to emigrate northwards.

"South Tyroleans, confess yourselves! A difficult but proud hour calls on you to confess for your blood and your people, to decide whether you will finally renounce your German nationality for yourselves and your descendants or whether you will proudly and freely confess your German identity. You are not choosing between your homeland and Galicia, but between a South Tyrol that has become alien to us and the land that the Führer will assign to us in the German Reich. The decision is difficult, but not in doubt for a moment, because we know what we owe to the call of our German blood, the German people and our Führer. We sacrifice the clod to the great goal, the great, holy German Reich."

As the capital of the Reichsgau, Innsbruck was to receive many of the so-called optants. Up to 50,000 new citizens were expected. In many peripheral areas of the city at the time, construction of the settlements began as early as August 1939 in anticipatory obedience. In order to bring the resettlers "home" as quickly as possible, all levers within the immense budget were released despite the war. In the first construction phase of the South Tyrol special measure, the city of Innsbruck planned 1000 flats, with almost 2000 more to be built by 1944. In addition to flats, shops, restaurants, schools, kindergartens and offices were to be built. As the war continued, money, building materials and labour became scarce, but despite this, just over 2000 flats were completed across the city.

When the blocks between Egger-Lienz-Straße and Franz-Fischer-Straße were ready for occupation in 1942, the situation was completely different to when the South Tyrolean population had been surveyed a few years earlier. The fortunes of war had turned and with them the enthusiasm for the Home in the Reich movement. There were now too many flats for too few "returnees" who dared to make the move from their Italian homeland to the north. Many of the flats were therefore not allocated to South Tyroleans, but to "deserving" subjects of the Nazi system.

During Allied air raids between December 1943 and December 1944, some of the houses in Speckbacherstraße were hit. None of them had to be demolished and the building fabric was basically preserved. In the 1960s, the houses were raised by two storeys, followed later by renovations and a change of colour from dull grey to various more vibrant colours. Between the blocks is the traffic park, where children from Inns-Bruck take their cycling licence under the watchful eye of the police.

On the corner of Speckbacherstraße and Franz-Fischer-Straße, you can admire a silent testimony to the construction of the South Tyrolean housing estate. At the height of the first floor is a stone statue. It was made by the South Tyrolean sculptor Alexander Lanner, who also sculpted the bust of the Führer in the Wedding Hall in the Golden Roof and the Princess and Frog King in the fountain in the Hofgarten in Innsbruck. The man looking resolutely northwards towards the old Reich is intended to represent a typical South Tyrolean in traditional Merano costume, a symbol of the optants who had committed themselves to the blood and soil ideology of the German people and left their homeland to do so.

Theodor Prachensky: Beamter zwischen Kaiser und Republik

In the late 1920s, pioneering building projects were realised in Innsbruck. Franz Baumann designed, based on the internationally popular White modernitythe stations of the Nordkettenbahn in the style of the Tiroler Moderne. Fritz Concert's municipal indoor swimming pool was intended to architecturally manifest the ideals of the life reform movement. A street in Innsbruck was dedicated to both architects. However, neither of them was to change Innsbruck as lastingly as Theodor Prachensky (1888 - 1970).

As an employee of the Innsbruck building authority between 1913 and 1953, he was primarily responsible for housing and infrastructure projects in the interwar period. The projects he realised are not as spectacular as the mountain stations of his brother-in-law Baumann. Prachensky's buildings, which have survived the times, often appear sober and purely functional. With the large housing estates of the 1920s and 30s, the Krieger memorial chapel at Pradl cemetery and the old labour office (today a branch of Innsbruck University behind the current AMS building), Innsbruck is home to many of Prachensky's buildings that document the contemporary history of the interwar period and the changing political and state influences that he himself was subject to as a person. However, if you look at his drawings in the Archive for Architecture at the University of Innsbruck, you realise that Prachensky was more of an artist than a technician, as his paintings prove. Many of his spectacular designs, such as the Sozialdemokratische Volkshaus in der Salurnerstraße, sein Kaiserschützendenkmal oder die Friedens- und Heldenkirche were not realised.

His biography reads like an outline of Austrian history in the 20th century. Prachensky worked as an architect and civil servant under five different state models. The Austro-Hungarian monarchy was followed by the First Republic, which was replaced by the authoritarian corporative state. In 1938, the country was annexed by Nazi Germany. The Second Republic was proclaimed at the end of the war in 1945.

In 1908, Prachensky graduated from the construction department of the Innsbruck trade school. From 1909, he worked partly together with Franz Baumann, whose sister Maria he was to marry in 1913, at the renowned architectural firm Musch & Lun in Merano, at that time also still part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. In his private life, 1913 was a groundbreaking year for him: Theodor and Maria got married and started the private building project of their own home Haus Prachensky at Berg Isel Weg 20 and Theodor took up his post at the Innsbruck City Council under Chief Building Officer Jakob Albert.

Instead of having to struggle through the difficult economic situation in the private sector after the war, Prachensky worked in the public sector. The important projects influenced by social democratic ideas could only be started after the first and most difficult post-war years, characterised by inflation and supply shortages. The first was the Schlachthausblock im Saggen zwischen 1922 und 1925. Es folgten mehrere Infrastrukturprojekte wie der Mandelsbergerblock, der Pembaurblock and the kindergarten and secondary school in Pembaurstraße, which were primarily intended for the socially disadvantaged and the working class affected by the war and the post-war period. The labour office designed in 1931 behind the current AMS building in Wilten was also an important innovation in the social welfare system. Since the founding of the Republic in 1918, the labour office has helped to place jobseekers with employers and curb unemployment.

His importance increased again during the years of the renewed economic crisis in the 1930s. Another turning point in Prachensky's career was the next change in Austria's form of government. Despite the shift to the right under Dollfuß, including the banning of the Social Democratic Party in 1933 and the Anschluss in 1938, he was able to remain in the civil service as a senior civil servant. His brother-in-law Franz Baumann, with whom he realised several building projects, was politically close to the right, as shown by his joining the NSDAP as early as May 1938. Together with Jakob Albert, Prachensky realised South Tyrolean housing estates under the National Socialists from 1939. Unlike several members of his family, he himself was never a member or supporter of the NSDAP.

After the Second World War, he remained active for a further eight years as Chief Planning Officer for the city of Innsbruck. In addition to his work as a construction planner and architect, Prachensky was a keen painter.

His father Josef Prachensky, who went down in Tyrolean history as one of the founders of social democracy, probably had a great influence on his work as an architect and urban planner in line with international social democratically orientated architecture.

In addition to his father's political views, the disappearance of the Habsburg monarchy and his impressions of military service in the First World War also had an influence on Prachensky. Although he said he was against the war, he volunteered for military service in 1915 as a one-year volunteer with the Tyrolean Kaiserjäger. Perhaps it was the expectations placed on him as a civil servant during the war, perhaps the general enthusiasm that prompted him to take this step, the statements and the deed are contradictory. The war memorial chapel at the Pradl cemetery and the Kaiserschützenkapelle on Tummelplatz, which he designed together with Clemens Holzmeister, as well as his unrealised designs for a Kaiserjäger monument and the Friedens- und Heldenkirche Innsbruckare probably products of Prachensky's life experience.

He died in Innsbruck at the age of 82. His sons, grandsons and great-grandsons continued his creative legacy as architects, designers, photographers and painters in various disciplines. In 2017, parts of the cross-generational work of the Prachensky family of artists were exhibited in the former brewery Adambräu mit einer Ausstellung gezeigt.

Operation Greenup - Innsbrooklyn's rebirth

After smaller battles in the Außerfern and at the Porta Claudia in Scharnitz near Seefeld, the Cactus Division of the US armed forces stood in Zirl at the gates of the Gau capital Innsbruck on 3 May 1945. A handful of resistance fighters led by Fritz Molden and the later Tyrolean governor Karl Gruber had occupied barracks and official facilities in Innsbruck after the Gau leadership, Gestapo and SS had fled the scene. Nevertheless, the GI's did not know what to expect in Innsbruck, as Adolf Hitler had declared Tyrol to be part of the Alpine fortress, the retreat that was to be defended to the last man. If Innsbruck were to become a battlefield, as had been the case in many cities, this would result in the destruction of the city. The fact that it did not come to that and Innsbruck was surrendered without a fight is due to a group of young people who were involved in the US espionage operation Operation Greenup laid the foundations for peaceful capitulation.

The male protagonists of this cinematic coup were Friedrich "Fred" Mayer, Hans Wijnberg, Franz Weber and Anna Niederkircher. The two Jews Mayer and Wijnberg had landed in New York while fleeing National Socialism. They had volunteered for service in Europe and were deployed with the OSS, the US military intelligence service. Weber had been stranded in a prison camp in southern Italy as a deserter from the Wehrmacht. After his war experiences, the staunch Catholic wanted to help overthrow the Nazi regime in his Tyrolean homeland. Together, they were to spy on the supply line over the Brenner Pass from Innsbruck as well as war-relevant infrastructure and industry such as the Messeschmitt factories in Kematen.

On 26 February, the three men and their equipment were dropped by plane over the Ötztal Alps in the wintery high mountains. Using sledges and public transport, they made their way to Oberperfuß, Franz Weber's home village, in the middle of enemy territory with all their equipment. Here they did not encounter Hitler's feared Alpine fortress, but rather support from the community of Oberperfuß, which had always been strictly Catholic, conservative and critical of the regime. Above all, those close to Weber, his sisters Eva, Margarete and Luise, his neighbour Maria Hörtnagl, but above all his fiancée Anni Niederkircher and her mother Anna, the landlady of the Gasthof zur Krone, played invaluable roles in providing supplies, camouflage and accommodation.

Franz Weber was the group's local guide. Fred Mayer mingled with the population in Oberperfuß, Innsbruck and Kematen under various identities, as a Wehrmacht soldier in the officers' mess, as a worker at the Messerschmitt factories or as a French forced labourer. He forged links with other resistance groups and gathered information. Weber's sisters harboured him and provided him with all sorts of things, such as forged papers or a stolen Wehrmacht uniform. Anni Niederkircher was the link between Oberperfuß and Innsbruck. Hans Wijnberg, as a radio operator, maintained communication with the US army base in Bari.

Everyone knew that if their risky operation was discovered, they and their families would be condemned to death. This happened at the end of April. Robert Moser, the radio dealer and resister who had employed Fred Mayer in his shop, was exposed. He was interrogated, tortured and finally beaten and whipped to death at the Gestapo headquarters in Innsbruck's Herrengasse. On 20 April, Fred Mayer was also arrested and tortured in Herrengasse. But he held out, and even more: after revealing himself to be a member of the US secret service, he was able to negotiate with Gauleiter Hofer to have Innsbruck handed over as a free city without a fight. In return for Mayer's assurance that he would be treated as a prisoner of war, Hofer issued an order to the population in a radio address on 2 May to refrain from any fighting.

At 2 pm on 3 May, Fred Mayer, still scarred from his treatment by the Gestapo, reached the US troops near Zirl with this message. A few hours later, the ceasefire came into effect. The vehicles and soldiers were able to enter the town without further bloodshed and destruction.

The memory of the Operation Greenup and the heroic actions of all those involved under extreme danger were not remembered for a long time in favour of the story of self-liberation by the brave Tyrolean people. It was not until 2010 that Fred Mayer, who was honoured with the Purple Heart who had received the US military's highest medal for valour, was honoured by the state of Tyrol late but still at the age of almost 90. Hans Wijnberg received a Medal of Merit from the City of Innsbruck ten years after his death. Franz Weber, who served as a member of the provincial and national councils after the war, was honoured with the Decoration of honour of the province of Tyrol und das Decoration of Honour in Gold of the Republic of Austria. A hard-to-find bronze plaque at the former Gestapo headquarters in Herrengasse commemorates Robert Moser, who was tortured to death. There is a small information plaque at the house at Anichstraße 19, where Mayer was housed during his stay in Innsbruck. This perhaps most impressive episode in Innsbruck's city history only became known to a wider audience with the publication of the gripping book "Codename Brooklyn" by Peter Pirker, which received a great deal of international attention. However, Innsbruck perhaps owes its most enduring legacy to Wijnberg's radio messages: the code name for the city was after the New York neighbourhood where Mayer and he spent a long time, Brooklyn. Innsbruck was reborn after National Socialism as Innsbrooklyn.

Innsbruck and National Socialism

In the climate of the 1930s, the NSDAP also grew and prospered in Tyrol. The first local branch of the NSDAP in Innsbruck was founded in 1923. With "Der Nationalsozialist - Combat Gazette for Tyrol and Vorarlberg" published its own weekly newspaper. While the National Socialists were only able to win 2.8% of the vote in their first municipal council election in 1921, this figure had already risen to 41% by the 1933 elections. Nine mandataries, including the later mayor Egon Denz and the Gauleiter of Tyrol Franz Hofer, were elected to the municipal council.

Not only Hitler's election as Reich Chancellor in Germany, but also campaigns and manifestations in Innsbruck helped the party, which had been banned in Austria since 1934, to achieve this result. It was not unusual for these manifestations to lead to outbreaks of violence in Austria during the interwar period. When the annexation of Austria to Germany took place in March 1938, a majority of almost 99% in Innsbruck also voted in favour. Even before Federal Chancellor Schuschnigg gave his last speech to the people before handing over power to the National Socialists with the words "God bless Austria" had closed on 11 March 1938, the National Socialists were already gathering in the city centre to celebrate the invasion of the German troops. The swastika flag was hoisted at the Tyrolean Landhaus, then still in Maria-Theresienstraße.

On 12 March, the people of Innsbruck gave the German military a frenetic welcome. A short time later, Adolf Hitler visited Innsbruck in person to be celebrated by the crowd. Archive photos show a euphoric crowd awaiting the Führer, the promise of salvation. After the economic hardship of the interwar period, the economic crisis and the governments under Dollfuß and Schuschnigg, people were tired and wanted change. What kind of change was initially less important than the change itself. "Showing them up there", that was Hitler's promise. The Wehrmacht and industry offered young people a perspective, even those who could do little with the ideology of National Socialism in and of itself. Unlike today, democracy was not something that anyone could have become accustomed to in the short period characterised by political extremes between the monarchy in 1918 and the elimination of parliament under Dollfuß in 1933. There is no need to abolish something that does not actually exist in the minds of the population.

Tyrol and Vorarlberg were combined into a Reichsgau with Innsbruck as its capital. There was no armed resistance, as the left in Tyrol was not strong enough. There were isolated instances of unorganised subversive behaviour by the Catholic population, especially in some rural communities around Innsbruck, and it was only very late that organised resistance was able to gain a foothold in Innsbruck.

However, the regime under Hofer and Gestapo chief Werner Hilliges did a great job of suppression. In Catholic Tyrol, the Church was the biggest obstacle. During National Socialism, the Catholic Church was systematically combated. Catholic schools were converted, youth organisations banned and monasteries closed. Particularly stubborn priests such as Otto Neururer were sent to concentration camps. Local politicians such as the later Innsbruck mayors Anton Melzer and Franz Greiter also had to flee or were arrested. To summarise the violence and crimes committed against the Jewish population, the clergy, political suspects, civilians and prisoners of war would go beyond the scope of this book.

The Gestapo was located in what is now the Provincial Building Directorate at Herrengasse 1. Suspects were severely abused here and sometimes beaten to death with fists. In 1941, the Reichenau labour camp was set up in Rossau near the Innsbruck building yard. Suspects of all kinds were kept here for forced labour in shabby barracks. Over 130 people died in this camp consisting of 20 barracks due to illness, the poor conditions, labour accidents or executions.

Prisoners were also forced to work at the Messerschmitt factory in the village of Kematen, 10 kilometres from Innsbruck. These included political prisoners, Russian prisoners of war and Jews. The forced labour included, among other things, the construction of the South Tyrolean settlements in the final phase or the tunnels to protect against air raids in the south of Innsbruck. Disabled people and those deemed unacceptable by the system, such as homosexuals, were forcibly sterilised in the Innsbruck clinic. The psychiatric clinic in Hall was involved in Nazi crimes against disabled people.

Air raids on Innsbruck

Like the course of the city's history, its appearance is also subject to constant change. The years around 1500 and between 1850 and 1900, when political, economic and social changes took place at a particularly rapid pace, produced particularly visible changes in the cityscape. However, the most drastic event with the greatest impact on the cityscape was probably the air raids on the city during the Second World War.

In addition to the food shortage, people suffered from what the National Socialists called the "Heimatfront" in the city were particularly affected by the Allied air raids. Innsbruck was an important supply station for supplies on the Italian front.

The first Allied air raid on the ill-prepared city took place on the night of 15-16 December 1943. 269 people fell victim to the bombs, 500 were injured and more than 1500 were left homeless. Over 300 buildings, mainly in Wilten and the city centre, were destroyed and damaged. On Monday 18 December, the following were found in the Innsbrucker Nachrichten, dem Vorgänger der Tiroler Tageszeitung, auf der Titelseite allerhand propagandistische Meldungen vom erfolgreichen und heroischen Abwehrkampf der Deutschen Wehrmacht an allen Fronten gegenüber dem Bündnis aus Anglo-Amerikanern und dem Russen, nicht aber vom Bombenangriff auf Innsbruck.

Bombenterror über Innsbruck

Innsbruck, 17. Dez. Der 16. Dezember wird in der Geschichte Innsbrucks als der Tag vermerkt bleiben, an dem der Luftterror der Anglo-Amerikaner die Gauhauptstadt mit der ganzen Schwere dieser gemeinen und brutalen Kampfweise, die man nicht mehr Kriegführung nennen kann, getroffen hat. In mehreren Wellen flogen feindliche Kampfverbände die Stadt an und richteten ihre Angriffe mit zahlreichen Spreng- und Brandbomben gegen die Wohngebiete. Schwerste Schäden an Wohngebäuden, an Krankenhäusern und anderen Gemeinschaftseinrichtungen waren das traurige, alle bisherigen Schäden übersteigende Ergebnis dieses verbrecherischen Überfalles, der über zahlreiche Familien unserer Stadt schwerste Leiden und empfindliche Belastung der Lebensführung, das bittere Los der Vernichtung liebgewordenen Besitzes, der Zerstörung von Heim und Herd und der Heimatlosigkeit gebracht hat. Grenzenloser Haß und das glühende Verlangen diese unmenschliche Untat mit schonungsloser Schärfe zu vergelten, sind die einzige Empfindung, die außer der Auseinandersetzung mit den eigenen und den Gemeinschaftssorgen alle Gemüter bewegt. Wir alle blicken voll Vertrauen auf unsere Soldaten und erwarten mit Zuversicht den Tag, an dem der Führer den Befehl geben wird, ihre geballte Kraft mit neuen Waffen gegen den Feind im Westen einzusetzen, der durch seinen Mord- und Brandterror gegen Wehrlose neuerdings bewiesen hat, daß er sich von den asiatischen Bestien im Osten durch nichts unterscheidet – es wäre denn durch größere Feigheit. Die Luftschutzeinrichtungen der Stadt haben sich ebenso bewährt, wie die Luftschutzdisziplin der Bevölkerung. Bis zur Stunde sind 26 Gefallene gemeldet, deren Zahl sich aller Voraussicht nach nicht wesentlich erhöhen dürfte. Die Hilfsmaßnahmen haben unter Führung der Partei und tatkräftigen Mitarbeit der Wehrmacht sofort und wirkungsvoll eingesetzt.

Diese durch Zensur und Gleichschaltung der Medien fantasievoll gestaltete Nachricht schaffte es gerade mal auf Seite 3. Prominenter wollte man die schlechte Vorbereitung der Stadt auf das absehbare Bombardement wohl nicht dem Volkskörper präsentieren. Ganz so groß wie 1938 nach dem Anschluss, als Hitler am 5. April von 100.000 Menschen in Innsbruck begeistert empfangen worden war, dürfte die Begeisterung für den Nationalsozialismus nicht mehr gewesen sein. Zu groß waren die Schäden an der Stadt und die persönlichen, tragischen Verluste in der Bevölkerung. Im Jänner 1944 begann man Luftschutzstollen und andere Schutzmaßnahmen zu errichten. Die Arbeiten wurden zu einem großen Teil von Gefangenen des Konzentrationslagers Reichenau durchgeführt.

Innsbruck was attacked a total of twenty-two times between 1943 and 1945. Almost 3833, i.e. almost 50%, of the city's buildings were damaged and 504 people died. Fortunately, the city was only the victim of targeted attacks. German cities such as Hamburg or Dresden were completely razed to the ground by the Allies with firestorms and tens of thousands of deaths within a few hours. Many buildings such as the Jesuit Church, Wilten Abbey, the Servite Church, the cathedral and the indoor swimming pool in Amraserstraße were hit.

Historic buildings and monuments received special treatment during the attacks. The Goldene Dachl was protected with a special construction, as was Maximilian's sarcophagus in the Hofkirche. The figures in the Hofkirche, the Schwarzen Mannderwere brought to Kundl. The Mother of Mercy, the famous picture from Innsbruck Cathedral, was transferred to Ötztal during the war.

The air-raid shelter tunnel south of Innsbruck on Brennerstrasse and the markings of houses with air-raid shelters with their black squares and white circles and arrows can still be seen today. In Pradl, where next to Wilten most of the buildings were damaged, bronze plaques on the affected houses indicate that they were hit by a bomb.