Andechsburg

Innrain 1

Andechsburg
Worth knowing

Around 1200, the Counts of Andechs had the castle built on the site of today's Andechshof built a castle at the entrance to the old town to protect and monitor the town's most valuable source of income, the customs bridge over the River Inn. Until 1790, this castle was adjoined by the Inntor as part of the city wall and defences. This Castrum InprukaThe castle also served as a princely residence until Frederick IV moved his seat to the Neuhof, today's Goldenen Dachl was relocated.

In the Middle Ages, Andechsburg Castle was the Inner armouryan armoury for the town's defence. For a long time, city defence was a civic duty, and there were no professional soldiers specifically assigned to this task. This meant that every citizen had to have a weapon at their disposal. The armoury was not only a weapons store for defence, but also had an internal function. This meant that not every citizen in Innsbruck had to have and look after their weapon in their private household. Even in the event of disputes between citizens, it was probably not detrimental to public safety that the brawlers did not have a weapon at their disposal at the first moment.

With the introduction of general conscription under Maria Theresa in Austria, the military infrastructure also had to adapt to a standing army. Innsbruck had been a garrison town since 1745. The building was used as a barracks from 1775, after the city wall was removed. The new form of warfare with artillery instead of siege towers rendered the old fortifications, which were designed for medieval sieges, useless. Although the military presence did not bring back the splendour of the times when the city was an imperial residence, the number of inhabitants and importance of the city increased at least a little thanks to the soldiers who were stationed here. From 1778, Innsbruck was home to parts of the Tyrolean Land and Field Regiment, which became the Tyrolean Imperial Hunters in 1816 after the Napoleonic Wars. At the same time, the Tyrolean riflemen remained, who had been trained at shooting ranges throughout the country since the late Middle Ages as a kind of standing militia.

In February and March 1848, there were uprisings against the Habsburgs in many towns and cities in northern Italy. 1st Italian War of Independence went down in history. The hostilities in northern Italy called for the modernisation of the Tyrolean military. Innsbruck had become a base behind the front line. In 1851, the modernisation of the Inn barracks began. The barracks were primarily a military base. The soldiers, who came from all over the multi-ethnic empire of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, also brought international flair to Innsbruck. The mostly young lads livened up the city with their presence and their pay, even if life in the barracks left little room for manoeuvre. 

The barracks existed until 1978 before the province of Tyrol took it over as an official building. A few remains of the walls in the inner courtyard are still reminiscent of the medieval castle. A picture of the Inntores on the façade gives an impression of what the old fortifications and town gate looked like in the Middle Ages and early modern times.

The Counts of Andechs and the foundation of Innsbruck

The 12th century brought economic, scientific and social prosperity to parts of Europe and is regarded as a kind of early Renaissance in the Middle Ages. The Crusades led to increased exchange with the cultures of the Middle East, which were more developed in many respects. Arab scholars brought translations of Greek thinkers such as Aristotle to Europe via southern Spain and Italy. Roman law was rediscovered. The first universities were founded in Italy. Agricultural knowledge allowed the development of towns and larger settlements. One of these settlements was located north of the Wilten monastery between the Inn river and the Nordkette mountain range.

When the Western Roman Empire collapsed in the 5th century, Bavarian tribes took control of the area that is now Innsbruck. They were happy to take over church institutions and structures, as clerics were often the only ones who knew the scriptures. In the time of Charlemagne (748 - 814), the feudal system began to establish itself in Central Europe. The dukes of Bavaria were feudal lords of the German kings and emperors, whose empire extended over large parts of central Europe and northern Italy.

Tyrol had two low Alpine crossings, the Reschen Pass and the Brenner Pass, which were important for the imperial connection between the German lands in the north and the lands in Italy. In 1024, Conrad II, a rival of the Bavarian dukes, was elected king. In order to bring these two Alpine crossings away from his Bavarian rivals and under the control of the Church, which was closer and more loyal to the emperor, Conrad II granted the territory of Tyrol to the bishops of Brixen and Trento as a fief in 1027. In order to administer their lands and exercise jurisdiction, the bishops needed local representatives, the so-called bailiffs. The bailiffs of the Bishop of Brixen were the Counts of Andechs. They came from the area around the Bavarian Ammersee. They administered the central part of the Inn Valley, the Wipp Valley and the Eisack Valley for the bishops. Over the next 200 years, this Bavarian princely family was to become the birthplace of the city of Innsbruck.

Today, Innsbruck stretches along both sides of the Inn. In the 11th century, this area was under the influence of two lords of the manor. To the south of the Inn, the Wilten monastery had its lordship. The area north of the Inn belonged to the Counts of Andechs. While the southern part of the town around the monastery was used for agriculture early on, the alluvial area of the unregulated river could not be cultivated before the High Middle Ages and was sparsely populated. The Andechs family founded the market here in 1133 Anbruggen and connected the northern and southern banks of the Inn via a bridge. The unusable agricultural land had become a trading centre. The bridge greatly facilitated the movement of goods in the Eastern Alps. The customs revenue generated from trade between the German and Italian towns allowed the settlement to prosper. Innsbruck's first surviving coat of arms dates back to 1267 and shows the Inn bridge on the stone boxes used to secure it at the time.

Anbruggen grew rapidly, but the space between the Nordkette and the Inn was limited. In 1180, Berchtold V of Andechs therefore acquired a piece of land on the south side of the Inn from Wilten Monastery. This was the starting signal for Innsbruck. In the course of building the city wall, the Counts of Andechs had the Andechs Castle and moved their ancestral seat from Merano to Innsbruck. This settlement also grew rapidly and sometime between 1187 and 1204 the people of Innsbruck were able to enjoy city rights. The official date of foundation is often taken as 1239, when the last Count of Andechs, Otto VIII, confirmed the town charter in a document. At this time, Innsbruck was already the mint of the Andechs family and would probably have become the capital of their principality. But things turned out differently. Otto died in 1248 without descendants. The Counts of Tyrol took control of the Inn Valley and the city. They made Merano the first capital of the province of Tyrol.

1796 - 1866: Vom Herzen Jesu bis Königgrätz

The period between the French Revolution and the Battle of Königgrätz in 1866 was a period of war. The monarchies of Europe, led by the Habsburgs, had declared war on the French Republic. Fears were rife that the motto of the Revolution "Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité" could spread across Europe. A young general named Napoleon Bonaparte was with his italienischen Armee advanced across the Alps as part of the coalition wars and met the Austrian troops there. It was not just a war for territory and power, it was a battle of systems. The Grande Armee of the revolutionary French Republic met the arch-Catholic Habsburgs.

Tyrolean riflemen were involved in the fighting to defend the country's borders against the invading French. Companies such as the Höttinger Schützen, founded in 1796, faced the most advanced and best army in the world at the time. The Cult of the Sacred Heart, which still enjoys great popularity in Tyrol today, dates back to this time. In a hopeless situation, the Tyrolean troops renewed their covenant with the heart of Jesus to ask for protection. It was the abbot of Stams Monastery who petitioned the provincial estates to henceforth organise an annual "das Fest des göttlichen Herzens Jesu mit feierlichem Gottesdienst zu begehen, wenn Tirol von der drohenden Feindesgefahr befreit werde." Every year, the Sacred Heart celebrations were discussed and announced with great pomp in the press. Particularly in the 19th and early 20th centuries, they were an explosive mixture of popular superstition, Catholicism and national resentment against everything French and Italian. Alongside Cranach's Mother of Mercy, the depiction of the heart of Jesus is probably the most popular Christian motif in the Tyrolean region to this day and is emblazoned on the façades of countless houses.

In the war years of 1848, 1859 and 1866, the so-called Italian wars of unification. In the course of the 19th century, at the latest since 1848, there was a veritable national frenzy among young men. Volunteer armies sprang up in all regions of Europe. Students and academics who came together in their associations, gymnasts, marksmen, all wanted to prove their new love of the nation on the battlefield and supported the official armies. Probably the most famous battle of the Wars of unification took place in Solferino near Lake Garda in 1859. Horrified by the bloody events, Henry Durant decided to found the Red Cross. The writer Joseph Roth described the events in the first pages of his classic book, which is well worth reading Radetzkymarsch.

"In the battle of Solferino, he (note: Lieutenant Trotta) commanded a platoon as an infantry lieutenant. The battle had been going on for half an hour. Three paces in front of him he saw the white backs of his soldiers. The first row of his platoon was kneeling, the second was standing. Everyone was cheerful and certain of victory. They had eaten copiously and drunk brandy at the expense and in honour of the emperor, who had been in the field since yesterday. Here and there one fell out of line."

As a garrison town, Innsbruck was an important supply centre. After the Congress of Vienna, the Tyrolean Jägerkorps the k.k. Tiroler Kaiserjägerregiment an elite unit that was deployed in these conflicts. Volunteer units such as the Innsbruck academics or the Stubai Riflemen were fighting in Italy. The media fuelled the atmosphere away from the front line. The "Innsbrucker Zeitung" predigte in ihren Artikeln Kaisertreue und großdeutsch-tirolischen Nationalismus, wetterte gegen das Italienertum und Franzosen und pries den Mut Tiroler Soldaten.

"Die starke Besetzung der Höhen am Ausgange des Valsugana bei Primolano und le Tezze gab schon oft den Innsbrucker-Akademikern I. und den Stubaiern Anlaß, freiwillige Ercur:sionen gegen le Tezze, Fonzago und Fastro, als auch auf das rechte Brenta-Ufer und den Höhen gegen die kleinen Lager von den Sette comuni zu machen...Am 19. schon haben die Stubaier einige Feinde niedergestreckt, als sie sich das erste mal hinunterwagten, indem sie sich ihnen entgegenschlichen..."

The year 1866 was particularly costly for the Austrian Empire, with the loss of Veneto and Lombardy in Italy. At the same time, Prussia took the lead in the German Confederation, the successor organisation to the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation. For Innsbruck, the withdrawal of the Habsburg Monarchy from the German Confederation meant that it had finally become a city on the western periphery of the empire. The tendency towards so-called Großdeutschen LösungThe idea of statehood together with the German Empire instead of the independent Austrian Empire was more pronounced in Tyrol than in the rest of Austria.

The national aspirations of the individual ethnic groups did not stop at Tyrol, as the Trentino region between Salurn and Riva on Lake Garda also included an Italian-speaking part of the country. In the Tyrolean state parliament, Italian-speaking members of parliament called for so-called Irredentistsmore rights and autonomy for what was then South Tyrol. In Innsbruck, there were repeated tensions and clashes between Italian and German-speaking students. The WallschenThis term for Italians persists to this day and they were considered dishonourable, unreliable and lazy.

With the Tummelplatz, the Pradl military cemetery and the Kaiserjägermuseum on Mount Isel, Innsbruck has several places of remembrance of this time of great loss for the Habsburgs.

Maria Theresia, Reformatorin und Landesmutter

Maria Theresa is one of the most important figures in Austrian history. Although she is often referred to as Empress, she was officially "only" Archduchess of Austria, Queen of Hungary and Queen of Bohemia. Her domestic reforms were significant. Together with her advisors Friedrich Wilhelm von Haugwitz, Joseph von Sonnenfels and Wenzel Anton Kaunitz, she managed to emerge from the so-called Österreichischen Erblanden to create a modern state. Instead of the administration of its territories by the local nobility, it favoured a modern administration. The welfare of her subjects became more important. In the style of the Enlightenment, her advisors had recognised that the welfare of the state depended on the health and education of its individual parts. Subjects were to be Catholic, but their loyalty was to be to the state. School education was placed under centralised state administration. No critical, humanistic intellectuals were to be educated, but rather material for the state administrative apparatus. Non-nobles could now also rise to higher state positions via the military and administration.

A rethink took place in law enforcement and the judiciary. In 1747, a kleine Polizei which was responsible for matters relating to market supervision, trade regulations, tourist control and public decency. The penal code Constitutio Criminalis Theresiana did not abolish torture, but it did regulate its use.

Economic reforms were intended not only to create more opportunities for the subjects, but also to increase state revenue. Weights and measures were nominated to make the tax system more impermeable. For citizens and peasants, the standardisation of laws had the advantage that life was less dependent on landlords and their whims. The RobotThis was abolished under Maria Theresa.

As much as Maria Theresa staged herself as a pious mother of the country and is known today as an Enlightenment figure, the strict Catholic ruler was not squeamish when it came to questions of power and religion. In keeping with the trend of the Enlightenment, she had superstitions such as vampirism, which was widespread in the eastern parts of her empire, critically analysed and initiated the final end to witch trials. At the same time, however, she mercilessly expelled Protestants from the country. Many Tyroleans were forced to leave their homeland and settle in parts of the Habsburg Empire further away from the centre.

In crown lands such as Tyrol, Maria Theresa's reforms met with little favour. With the exception of a few liberals, they saw themselves more as an independent and autonomous province and less as part of a modern territorial state. The clergy also did not like the new, subordinate role, which became even more pronounced under Joseph II. For the local nobility, the reforms not only meant a loss of importance and autonomy, but also higher taxes and duties. Taxes, levies and customs duties, which had always provided the city of Innsbruck with reliable income, were now collected centrally and only partially refunded via financial equalisation. In order to minimise the fall of sons from impoverished aristocratic families and train them for civil service, Maria Theresa founded the Theresianumwhich also had a branch in Innsbruck from 1775.

As is so often the case, time has ironed out many a wrinkle and the people of Innsbruck are now proud to have been home to one of the most important rulers in Austrian history. Today, the Triumphpfote and the Hofburg in Innsbruck are the main reminders of the Theresian era.