Court dwarf & castle giant
Hofgasse 12
Worth knowing
Opposite the entrance to the Hofburg in Hofgasse is a building that symbolises the diverse influences from all over Europe that have shaped Innsbruck over the centuries. The house commemorates two extraordinary Innsbruck residents, the court dwarf Thomele and the castle giant Haidl. The Burgriesenhaus like many other buildings in the historic city centre, was built by the Türings. The stately entrance door to the castle giant's home with the "whispering arch" in Hofgasse is a real Innsbruck curiosity. If someone whispers something on one side of the entrance arch, the other person can hear the whispered word if they put their ear to the arch on the other side of the door. The imaginative figures on the wooden entrance door were created by the Tyrolean sculptor Rudolf Millonig for the former Gasthof zum Burgriesen in a nod to its Gothic heritage.
The façade is decorated with a picture of the court dwarf and a poem:
„Under God's blessing and St. Mary's hand. Mary's hand, this house is granted to the little giants.“
Thomele served to amuse the prince and his court at the court of Ferdinand II. Court dwarfs and giants had become a tradition since the Middle Ages, starting in the Duchy of Burgundy, which had become part of the Habsburg Empire under Maximilian. Burgundy, with its rich cities of Ghent and Bruges, was Europe's avant-garde alongside the Italian metropolises, not only financially but also culturally. Princes of the 15th century emulated the northern European royal court. Maximilian's first wife Maria brought much of this flair to the Habsburg court and ceremonial. It is therefore no wonder that the cosmopolitan Ferdinand did not want to do without court dwarfs.
Court dwarfs and court jesters were allowed to criticise the regent at the time. Nevertheless, Thomele was not to be envied, although dwarves were in great demand as entertainers. If the performances were not to the regent's liking, kicks, punches and slaps were the order of the day.
Castle giant Nikolaus Haidl was not only a curiosity, but also a kind of bodyguard to Archduke Siegmund the Rich in Coin as part of the guard. His gigantic skeletal remains were found in the crypt during construction work in Innsbruck Cathedral in 1866, so he is not a legendary figure but actually existed. On the first floor of the city tower is a stone statue that was removed from the niche in the façade of the Burgriesenhaus.
The Burgriesenhaus was home to Prince Eugene (1663 - 1736), one of the greatest generals in Habsburg history, when he was travelling through. Like Ferdinand, he is also a kind of European melange. Francois-Eugene de Savoie-Carignan was actually a French subject of the Sun King Louis XIV and member of the French aristocracy. Legend has it that it was because of his slight stature that he was rejected by the French army. It is more likely that his family had fallen into royal disfavour due to unfortunate circumstances, which is why Eugene enlisted in the military service of the Habsburgs, the long-time rivals of the French monarchy. Between 1683 and 1718, he fought in all the major military conflicts in Europe. To this day, he is best known for his defence of Vienna against the Ottoman conquest.
As a native Frenchman, he became a member of the Emperor's Privy Council and President of the Court War Council. Between 1716 and 1724, he was governor of the Austrian Netherlands. With his private fortune, he became one of the most important private builders between Budapest and Vienna. As an educated collector with an interest in science and art, Prince Eugene corresponded with the most important scholars of his time, such as Leibniz, Montesquieu and Voltaire. Paintings depicted him as a star in Baroque splendour, and songs were sung about him as the protector of Christian Europe from the Turkish threat. At the height of his power, Prince Eugene, a Frenchman in the service of the arch-enemy, was probably the most influential man in Europe after the emperors under whom he served.
His body is buried in St Stephen's Cathedral in Vienna, his heart separately in the Basilica di Superga in Turin, the burial church of the House of Savoy, from which he descended. His indirect descendants from this French noble family were to fight against Austria in the Italian Wars of Independence between 1848 and 1866 and establish the unity of Italy.
Similar to Andreas Hofer in Tyrol, Prince Eugene is often used for nationalist and populist purposes, which he would probably not have liked. In Innsbruck, alongside the Burgriesenhaus Prinz-Eugen-Straße in Saggen is dedicated to him.
Siegmund der Münzreiche
On Friedl mit der leeren Tasche followed Siegmund der Münzreiche als Tiroler Landesfürst. Siegmund von Tirol (1427 – 1496) startete denkbar schlecht in sein Amt als Landesfürst. Als sein Vater Friedrich IV. starb, war Siegmund erst 12 Jahre alt. Deshalb nahm ihn sein Onkel Friedrich III., der Kaiser des Heiligen Römischen Reichs und Vater Maximilians I., in unfreiwillige Obhut und Vormundschaft. Man könnte sagen, Siegmund startete seine Karriere als Geisel des Kaisers, seines eigenen Vetters. Tirol war mittlerweile eine reiche Grafschaft, die direkte Kontrolle darüber wollte der Kaiser nur ungern aufgeben. Erst als die Tiroler Landstände gegen diese Bevormundung protestierten, konnte Siegmund sein Amt antreten. Der Tiroler Landtag hatte die Regierungsgeschäfte in Ermangelung eines Landesfürsten übernommen und damit politisches Gewicht bewiesen. Mit 18 Jahren zog Siegmund in Innsbruck ein, um die Amtsgeschäfte zu übernehmen. Vier Jahre später heiratete er Eleonore von Schottland (1433 – 1480), die optisch wenig attraktive 16 Jahre alte Tochter Königs Jakob aus dem Hause Stewart. Die Ehe sollte ohne Kinder bleiben.
Siegmund erließ Siegmund die Schwaz mountain regulations, die zum Vorbild für alle Bergwerke der Habsburger werden sollte. Den Bergbeamten wurden, ähnlich den Universitäten, mehr Rechte innerhalb ihres Wirkungsbereiches gegeben. Für die Bergarbeiter gab es Sonderregelungen innerhalb der Gesellschaft, waren sie doch heiß begehrte Arbeitskräfte. Man kann von einer frühen sozial- und arbeitsrechtlichen Vereinbarung sprechen. Die Bergleute arbeiteten hart, verdienten aber verhältnismäßig gut. Dasselbe galt für die Münzprägeanstalt und die Salinen in Hall. Auch in Innsbruck und Umgebung zog das städtische Leben neues Handwerk an. In Mühlau etablierte sich mit der Plattnerei hochwertiges Metallgewerbe. Die Menschen, die in dieser New Industry beschäftigt waren, bildeten eine Art Mittelschicht mit höherer Kaufkraft. Die Nachfrage nach Fleisch stieg an. Das hatte eine Veränderung der Landwirtschaft zur Folge. In stadtnahen Dörfern wie Pradl und Amras oder im Tiroler Unterland nahe den Bergwerken Hall und Schwaz östlich Innsbrucks entdeckten die Bauern die Viehzucht als einträglichere Quelle als den Ackerbau für sich. Bis heute unterscheiden sich die Anbauarten in den unterschiedlichen Regionen Tirols stark.
In 1484, Siegmund had the mint moved from Meran in South Tyrol to Hall, which earned him the nickname Siegmund der Münzreiche brought in. For the small town of Hall, which was located in the immediate vicinity of Innsbruck, as well as for Innsbruck itself, this meant an immense increase in value. In reality, however, despite the rich land he had inherited from Frederick IV, Siegmund was not particularly rich in coin, unlike his father, due to his opulent lifestyle. His second marriage was to Katharina of Saxony (1468 - 1524), a lady from a highly aristocratic electoral family. It was probably also thanks to the influence and court behaviour of Siegmund and his two wives that the expenditure of the Coin rich exceeded the income from taxes, salt works and mines in the long term. At the royal wedding in 1484, the bride's procession alone comprised 54 carriages. The guests had to be accommodated and catered for in Innsbruck. Even with a wife 40 years his junior, the now senile Siegmund was granted a male heir, which must have been particularly bitter for him considering the 30 children he was rumoured to have fathered out of wedlock.
Innsbruck flourished under Siegmund's court and coffers. During his opulent reign, the city became a centre of attraction for craftsmen, goldsmiths and artists. The city tower near the Old Town Hall as an expression of the city's prosperity and the first parts of the Hofburg were built under Siegmund. A glass painter settled in Innsbruck and established the tradition of glass painting in Innsbruck. Around 1900, the resulting Stained glass Innsbruck in today's Glasmalereistraße, one of the world's leading companies with branches in New York and Munich. The court library grew in step with Siegmund and Eleonore's humanistically scholarly guests. Both were considered art-loving and interested in literature. Before the invention of printing, books were an expensive hobby. Travellers and showmen were also welcome at court to entertain local and international guests.
Gleichzeitig wurden die Zeiten rauer für die, die mit dem neuen Lebensrhythmus der Stadt nicht mithalten konnten. Man kann von circa 2000 Stadtbürgern zu dieser Zeit ausgehen. Der Hofstaat Sigmunds dürfte aus 500 Personen bestanden haben, der Hofstaat seiner Frau war dabei nicht miteingerechnte. Diese „Fremden“ erregten in Innsbruck Aufsehen. Die Kluft zwischen den sozialen Schichten wuchs. Der Hexenprozess von 1485 fanden in einem Klima aus Neid, Missgunst und Skepsis gegenüber den neuen Sitten statt, die in Innsbruck Einzug hielten.
Siegmund war nicht der erfolgreichste Herrscher Tirols, blieb dank seiner Verdienste um den kulturellen Aufschwung in Innsbruck aber bis heute in guter Erinnerung. Sein Hof war am Ende seiner Regierungszeit übermäßig aufgebläht und teuer. Ein verlorener Krieg mit den Schweizer Eidgenossen verpflichtete ihn zu Zahlungen, auch ein Krieg mit Venedig endete schlecht. Siegmund musste habsburgische Besitzungen im Elsass und dem heutigen Breisgau an Karl the bold von Burgund, den zukünftigen Schwiegervater Maximilians I. verpfänden. Die österreichischen Vorlande verkaufte er zu einem Spottpreis an das Herzogtum Bayern, die Tiroler Silberbergwerke verpfändete er an Jakob Fugger. Die bayerischen Wittelsbacher wollten über einen Erbvertrag mit dem altersbedingt geistig umnachteten Sigmund auch Tirol wieder unter ihre Kontrolle bringen. Erst kaiserlicher Druck und das eilige Einschreiten der Tiroler Landstände und Maximilians ermöglichten den Verbleib des Landes beim Haus Habsburg.
Ferdinand II.: Renaissance, Glanz und Glamour
Archduke Ferdinand II of Austria (1529 - 1595) is one of the most colourful figures in Tyrolean history. His father, Emperor Ferdinand I, gave his son an excellent education. He grew up at the Spanish court of his uncle Emperor Charles V. He spent part of his youth at the court in Innsbruck, which was also influenced by Spain at the time. The years in which Ferdinand received his schooling were the early years of Jesuit influence at the Habsburg courts. At a young age, he travelled through Italy and Burgundy and had become acquainted with a lifestyle at the wealthy courts there that had not yet established itself among the German aristocracy. Ferdinand was what today would be described as a globetrotter, a member of the educated elite or a cosmopolitan. He was considered intelligent, charming and artistic. Among his less eccentric contemporaries, Ferdinand enjoyed a reputation as an immoral and hedonistic libertine. Even during his lifetime, he was rumoured to have organised debauched and immoral orgies.
Ferdinand had taken over the province of Tyrol as sovereign in turbulent times. The mines in Schwaz began to become unprofitable due to the cheap silver from America. The flood of silver from the New World led to inflation. This did not stop him from maintaining an expensive court, while the cost of living rose for the poorer sections of the population. The Italian cities were style-defining in terms of culture, art and architecture. Ferdinand's Tyrolean court was in no way inferior to these cities. His masked balls and parades were legendary. Ferdinand had Innsbruck remodelled in the spirit of the Renaissance. In keeping with the trend of the time, he imitated the Italian aristocratic courts in Florence, Mantua, Ferrara and Milan. Court architect Giovanni Lucchese assisted him in this endeavour. Gone were the days when Germans in the more beautiful cities south of the Alps were regarded as uncivilised, barbaric or even as Pigs were labelled.
But Ambras Castle was not the end of the story. To the west of the town, an archway is a reminder of the Tiergarten, ein Jagdrevier Ferdinands samt Lusthaus entworfen ebenfalls von Lucchese. Damit der Landesfürst sein Wochenenddomizil erreichen konnte, wurde eine Straße in die sumpfige Höttinger Au gelegt, die die Basis für die heutige Kranebitter Allee bildete. Das Lusthaus wurde 1786 durch den heute als Pulverturm The new building, which houses part of the sports science faculty of the University of Innsbruck, replaced the well-known building. The princely sport of hunting was followed in the former Lusthaus, das der Pulverturm war, die Sportuniversität nach. In der Innenstadt ließ er das fürstliche Comedihaus am heutigen Rennweg errichten. Um Innsbrucks Trinkwasserversorgung zu verbessern, wurde unter Ferdinand die Mühlauerbrücke errichtet, um eine Wasserleitung vom Mühlaubach ins Stadtgebiet zu verlegen.
Ferdinand's politics were also influenced by Italy. Machiavelli wrote his work "Il Principe", which stated that rulers were allowed to do whatever was necessary for their success if they were incompetent and could be deposed. Ferdinand II attempted to do justice to this early absolutist style of leadership and issued a modern set of legal rules for the time with his Tyrolean Provincial Code. The Jesuits, who had arrived in Innsbruck shortly before Ferdinand took office to make life difficult for troublesome reformers and church critics, reorganise the education system and strengthen the church's presence, were given a new church in Silbergasse. It may seem contradictory today that the pleasure-seeking Prince Ferdinand defended the church as a Catholic and counter-reformer, but this was not the case in the late Renaissance period. With his measures against the Jewish population, he was also in line with the Jesuits.
Ferdinand spent a considerable part of his life at Ambras Castle near Innsbruck, where he amassed one of the most valuable collections of works of art and armour in the world.
Ferdinand's first "semi-wild marriage" was to the commoner Philippine Welser. The sovereign is said to have been downright infatuated with his beautiful wife, which is why he disregarded all conventions of the time. Their children were excluded from the succession due to the strict social order of the 16th century. After Philippine Welser died, Ferdinand married the devout Anna Caterina Gonzaga, a 16-year-old princess of Mantua, at the age of 53. However, it seems that the two did not feel much affection for each other, especially as Anna Caterina was a niece of Ferdinand. The Habsburgs were less squeamish about marriages between relatives than they were about the marriage of a nobleman to a commoner. However, he was also "only" able to father three daughters with her. Ferdinand found his final resting place in the Silver Chapel with his first wife.
Türing dynasty of master builders: Innsbruck becomes a cosmopolitan city
Siegmund der Münzreiche was the one who brought Niklas Türing (1427 - 1496) to Innsbruck in the 15th century. The Türings were a family of stonemasons and master builders from what is now Swabia, which at the time was part of the Habsburg Monarchy as part of Vorderösterreich. Innsbruck had been the royal seat of the Tyrolean princes for several decades, but the architectural splendour had not yet arrived north of the Alps. The city was a collection of wooden houses and not very prestigious. For craftsmen and master builders, golden times were dawning, which were to gather even more momentum under Maximilian. There was a real building boom. Aristocrats wanted to have a residence in the city in order to be as close as possible to the centre of power. In the days before the press, a functioning postal system, fax and e-mail, politics was mainly played out through direct contact.
In the course of the late Middle Ages, the early Gothic period and later the Renaissance gave Europe a new architectural guise with a new understanding of architecture and aesthetics. Buildings such as Notre Dame or the Minster of York set the trend that would characterise the whole of Europe until the onset of the Baroque period. Pointed towers, ribbed vaults, bay windows and playful carvings depicting everyday courtly life are some of the typical features that make the heterogeneous style recognisable. The work of the Türings can be traced particularly well in the old town centre. Many of the town houses still have Gothic ground plans, courtyards and carvings. Niklas Türing is responsible for the famous
The Türings shaped Gothic Innsbruck in the transitional period between the Middle Ages and early modern times. Niklas Türing is responsible for the Goldene Dachl to a large extent. He also created the statue of the castle giant Haidl, a particularly tall member of Siegmund's bodyguard, which can be seen today in the town tower. Emperor Maximilian held him in such high esteem that he allowed him to place the family coat of arms of the Türings and his wife, a fountain and a fish, in the vault of the Goldenen Dachls to immortalise him. His son Gregor immortalised himself with the Trautsonhaus in der Herzog-Friedrich-Straße und am Burgriesenhaus in the Domgasse. The last of the Türings to have an influence on the Innsbruck building scene was Niklas Türing the Younger, who began planning the Hofkirche together with Andrea Crivelli. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the influence of the Gothic style began to wane, especially in what is now Austria. Churches in particular were increasingly remodelled and rebuilt in the Baroque style as part of the Counter-Reformation. Today, Türingstraße in the east of Innsbruck is a reminder of the early modern dynasty of master builders.