Court dwarf & castle giant

Hofgasse 12

Worth knowing

Opposite the entrance to the Hofburg in Hofgasse is a building that symbolises the diverse influences from all over Europe that have shaped Innsbruck over the centuries. The house commemorates two extraordinary Innsbruck residents, the court dwarf Thomele and the castle giant Haidl. The Burgriesenhaus like many other buildings in the historic city centre, was built by the Türings. The stately entrance door to the castle giant's home with the "whispering arch" in Hofgasse is a real Innsbruck curiosity. If someone whispers something on one side of the entrance arch, the other person can hear the whispered word if they put their ear to the arch on the other side of the door. The imaginative figures on the wooden entrance door were created by the Tyrolean sculptor Rudolf Millonig for the former Gasthof zum Burgriesen in a nod to its Gothic heritage.

The façade is decorated with a picture of the court dwarf and a poem:

Under God's blessing and St. Mary's hand. Mary's hand, this house is granted to the little giants.“

Thomele served to amuse the prince and his court at the court of Ferdinand II. Court dwarfs and giants had become a tradition since the Middle Ages, starting in the Duchy of Burgundy, which had become part of the Habsburg Empire under Maximilian. Burgundy, with its rich cities of Ghent and Bruges, was Europe's avant-garde alongside the Italian metropolises, not only financially but also culturally. Princes of the 15th century emulated the northern European royal court. Maximilian's first wife Maria brought much of this flair to the Habsburg court and ceremonial. It is therefore no wonder that the cosmopolitan Ferdinand did not want to do without court dwarfs.

Court dwarfs and court jesters were allowed to criticise the regent at the time. Nevertheless, Thomele was not to be envied, although dwarves were in great demand as entertainers. If the performances were not to the regent's liking, kicks, punches and slaps were the order of the day.

Castle giant Nikolaus Haidl was not only a curiosity, but also a kind of bodyguard to Archduke Siegmund the Rich in Coin as part of the guard. His gigantic skeletal remains were found in the crypt during construction work in Innsbruck Cathedral in 1866, so he is not a legendary figure but actually existed. On the first floor of the city tower is a stone statue that was removed from the niche in the façade of the Burgriesenhaus.

The Burgriesenhaus was home to Prince Eugene (1663 - 1736), one of the greatest generals in Habsburg history, when he was travelling through. Like Ferdinand, he is also a kind of European melange. Francois-Eugene de Savoie-Carignan was actually a French subject of the Sun King Louis XIV and member of the French aristocracy. Legend has it that it was because of his slight stature that he was rejected by the French army. It is more likely that his family had fallen into royal disfavour due to unfortunate circumstances, which is why Eugene enlisted in the military service of the Habsburgs, the long-time rivals of the French monarchy. Between 1683 and 1718, he fought in all the major military conflicts in Europe. To this day, he is best known for his defence of Vienna against the Ottoman conquest.

As a native Frenchman, he became a member of the Emperor's Privy Council and President of the Court War Council. Between 1716 and 1724, he was governor of the Austrian Netherlands. With his private fortune, he became one of the most important private builders between Budapest and Vienna. As an educated collector with an interest in science and art, Prince Eugene corresponded with the most important scholars of his time, such as Leibniz, Montesquieu and Voltaire. Paintings depicted him as a star in Baroque splendour, and songs were sung about him as the protector of Christian Europe from the Turkish threat. At the height of his power, Prince Eugene, a Frenchman in the service of the arch-enemy, was probably the most influential man in Europe after the emperors under whom he served.

His body is buried in St Stephen's Cathedral in Vienna, his heart separately in the Basilica di Superga in Turin, the burial church of the House of Savoy, from which he descended. His indirect descendants from this French noble family were to fight against Austria in the Italian Wars of Independence between 1848 and 1866 and establish the unity of Italy.

Similar to Andreas Hofer in Tyrol, Prince Eugene is often used for nationalist and populist purposes, which he would probably not have liked. In Innsbruck, alongside the Burgriesenhaus Prinz-Eugen-Straße in Saggen is dedicated to him.

Siegmund der Münzreiche

On Friedl mit der leeren Tasche followed Siegmund der Münzreiche as Prince of Tyrol. Siegmund of Tyrol (1427 - 1496) had the worst possible start to his reign. When his father Frederick died, Siegmund was only 12 years old. His uncle Frederick III, Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire and father of Maximilian I, therefore took him into involuntary custody and guardianship. You could say that Siegmund began his career as a hostage of the emperor, his own cousin. Tyrol was now a rich county and the emperor was reluctant to relinquish direct control over it. It was only when the Tyrolean estates protested against this paternalism that Siegmund was able to take office. The Tyrolean Diet had taken over the reins of government in the absence of a sovereign prince, thereby demonstrating its political clout. At the age of 18, Siegmund moved to Innsbruck to take over the official duties. Four years later, he married Eleanor of Scotland (1433 - 1480), the visually unattractive 16-year-old daughter of King James of the House of Stewart. The marriage was to remain childless.

Siegmund issued the Schwaz mountain regulationswhich was to become the model for all Habsburg mines. Mining officials were given more rights within their sphere of influence, similar to the universities. There were special regulations for miners within society, as they were a highly sought-after labour force. One can speak of an early social and labour law agreement. The miners worked hard, but earned relatively well. The same applied to the mint and the salt works in Hall. Urban life in Innsbruck and the surrounding area also attracted new trades. In Mühlau, a high-quality metalworking trade was established in the form of the Plattnerei. In 1484, Siegmund had the mint moved from Meran in South Tyrol to Hall, which earned him the nickname Siegmund der Münzreiche brought in. This meant an immense upgrade not only for Hall, but also for Innsbruck.

Innsbruck flourished under Siegmund's court and coffers. During his opulent reign, the city became a centre of attraction for craftsmen, goldsmiths and artists. The city tower near the Old Town Hall as an expression of the city's prosperity and the first parts of the Hofburg were built under Siegmund. A glass painter settled in Innsbruck and established the tradition of glass painting in Innsbruck. Around 1900, the resulting Stained glass Innsbruck in today's Glasmalereistraße, one of the world's leading companies with branches in New York and Munich. The court library grew in step with Siegmund and Eleonore's humanistically scholarly guests. Both were considered art-loving and interested in literature. Before the invention of printing, books were an expensive hobby. Travellers and showmen were also welcome at court to entertain local and international guests.

Siegmund's opulent lifestyle not only cost him a lot of money, but also his political reputation and, at the end of his career, probably also the princely throne. His second marriage was to Katharina of Saxony (1468 - 1524), a lady from a highly aristocratic electoral family. It was probably also thanks to the influence and court behaviour of Siegmund and his two wives that the expenses of the Coin rich exceeded the income from taxes, salt works and mines in the long term. At the royal wedding in 1484, the bride's procession alone comprised 54 carriages. The guests had to be accommodated and catered for in Innsbruck. Even with a wife 40 years his junior, the now senile Siegmund was granted a male heir, which must have been particularly bitter for him considering the 30 children he was rumoured to have fathered out of wedlock.

At the same time, times became tougher for those who could not keep up with the new pace of life in the city. It can be assumed that there were around 2000 townspeople at this time. Sigmund's court probably consisted of 500 people, not including his wife's court. These "strangers" caused a sensation in Innsbruck. The gap between the social classes grew. The witch trial of 1485 took place in a climate of envy, resentment and scepticism towards the new customs that had arrived in Innsbruck.

Siegmund was not the most successful ruler of Tyrol, but is still fondly remembered today thanks to his services to the cultural upswing in Innsbruck. At the end of his reign, his court was overly bloated and expensive. A lost war with the Swiss Confederates obliged him to make payments, and a war with Venice also ended badly. Siegmund had to hand over Habsburg possessions in Alsace and what is now Breisgau to Charles the bold of Burgundy, the future father-in-law of Maximilian I. He sold the Austrian Forelands to the Duchy of Bavaria for a ridiculously low price and pledged the Tyrolean silver mines to Jakob Fugger. The Bavarian Wittelsbachs wanted to bring Tyrol back under their control through an inheritance agreement with Sigmund, who was mentally deranged due to his age. Only imperial pressure and the hasty intervention of the Tyrolean estates and Maximilian made it possible for the land to remain with the House of Habsburg. 

Ferdinand II: Innsbruck's Principe and Renaissance Prince

Archduke Ferdinand II of Austria (1529 - 1595) is one of the most colourful figures in Tyrolean history. His father, Emperor Ferdinand I, gave him an excellent education. He grew up at the Spanish court of his uncle Emperor Charles V. The years in which Ferdinand received his schooling were the early years of Jesuit influence at the Habsburg courts. The young statesman was brought up entirely in the spirit of pious humanism. This was complemented by the customs of the Renaissance aristocracy. At a young age, he travelled through Italy and Burgundy and had become acquainted with a lifestyle at the wealthy courts there that had not yet established itself among the German aristocracy. Ferdinand was what today would be described as a globetrotter, a member of the educated elite or a cosmopolitan. He was considered intelligent, charming and artistic. Among his less eccentric contemporaries, Ferdinand enjoyed a reputation as an immoral and hedonistic libertine. Even during his lifetime, he was rumoured to have organised debauched and immoral orgies.

Ferdinand's father divided his realm between his sons. Maximilian II, who was rightly suspected of heresy and adherence to Protestant doctrines by his parents, inherited Upper and Lower Austria as well as Bohemia and Hungary. Ferdinand's younger brother Charles ruled in Inner Austria, i.e. Carinthia, Styria and Carniola. The middle child received Tyrol, which at the time extended as far as the Engadine, and the fragmented Habsburg Forelands in the west of the central European possessions.

Ferdinand took over the province of Tyrol as sovereign in turbulent times. He had already spent several years in Innsbruck in his youth. The mines in Schwaz began to become unprofitable due to the cheap silver from America. The flood of silver from the Habsburg possessions in New Spain on the other side of the Atlantic led to inflation. However, these financial problems did not stop Ferdinand from commissioning personal and public infrastructure. The Italian cities of Florence, Venice and Milan were trendsetters in culture, art and architecture. Ferdinand's Tyrolean court was to be in no way inferior to them. To this end, he had Innsbruck remodelled in the spirit of the Renaissance. In keeping with the trend of the time, he imitated the Italian aristocratic courts. Court architect Giovanni Lucchese assisted him in this endeavour. Gone were the days when Germans were considered uncivilised in the more beautiful cities south of the Alps, barbaric or even as Pigs were labelled.

He spent a considerable part of his life at Ambras Castle near Innsbruck, where he amassed one of the most valuable collections of works of art and armour in the world. Ferdinand transformed the castle above the village of Amras into a modern court. His parties, masked balls and parades were legendary. During the wedding of a nephew, he had 1800 calves and 130 oxen roasted. Wine is said to have flowed from the wells instead of water for 10 days.

But Ambras Castle was not the end of Innsbruck's transformation. To the west of the city, an archway still reminds us of the Tiergartena hunting ground for Ferdinand, including a summer house also designed by Lucchese. In order for the prince to reach his weekend residence, a road was laid in the marshy Höttinger Au, which formed the basis for today's Kranebitter Allee. The Lusthaus was replaced in 1786 by what is now known as the Pulverturm The new building, which houses part of the sports science faculty of the University of Innsbruck, replaced the well-known building. The princely sport of hunting was followed in the former Lusthauswhich was the Powder Tower. In the city centre, he had the princely Comedihaus on today's Rennweg. In order to improve Innsbruck's drinking water supply, the Mühlauerbrücke bridge was built under Ferdinand to lay a water pipeline from the Mühlaubach stream into the city centre. The Jesuits, who had arrived in Innsbruck shortly before Ferdinand took office to make life difficult for troublesome reformers and church critics and to reorganise the education system, were given a new church in Silbergasse.

He paid particular attention to the confessional orientation of his flock. Fleecing the population, living in splendour, tolerating Protestantism among his important advisors and at the same time fighting Protestantism among the people was no contradiction for the trained Renaissance prince. Already at the age of 15, he marched under his uncle Charles V in the Schmalkaldic War into battle against the enemies of the Roman Church. As a sovereign, he saw himself as Advocatus Ecclesiae (note: representative of the church) in a confessional absolutist sense, who was responsible for the salvation of his subjects. Coercive measures, the foundation of churches and monasteries such as the Franciscans and the Capuchins in Innsbruck, improved pastoral care and the staging of Jesuit theatre plays such as "The beheading of John" were the weapons of choice against Protestantism. Ferdinand's piety was not artificial, but like most of his contemporaries, he managed to adapt flexibly to the situation.

Ferdinand's politics were suitably influenced by the Italian avant-garde of the time. Machiavelli wrote his work "Il Principe", which stated that rulers were allowed to do whatever was necessary for their success, even if they were incapable of being deposed. Ferdinand II attempted to do justice to this early absolutist style of leadership and issued his Tyrolean Provincial Code A modern set of legal rules by the standards of the time. For his subjects, this meant higher taxes on their earnings as well as extensive restrictions on mountain pastures, fishing and hunting rights. The miners, mining entrepreneurs and foreign trading companies with their offices in Innsbruck also drove up food prices. It could be summarised that Ferdinand enjoyed the exclusive pleasure of hunting on his estates, while his subjects lived at subsistence level due to increasing burdens, prices and game damage.

His relationship life was eccentric for a member of the high aristocracy. Ferdinand's first "semi-wild marriage" was to the commoner Philippine Welser. The sovereign is said to have been downright infatuated with his beautiful wife, which is why he disregarded all the conventions of the time. Their children were excluded from the succession due to the strict social order of the 16th century. After Philippine Welser died, Ferdinand married the devout Anna Caterina Gonzaga, a 16-year-old princess of Mantua, at the age of 53. However, it seems that the two did not feel much affection for each other, especially as Anna Caterina was a niece of Ferdinand. The Habsburgs were less squeamish about marriages between relatives than they were about the marriage of a nobleman to a commoner. However, he was also "only" able to father three daughters with her. Ferdinand's final resting place was in the Silver Chapel with his first wife Philippine Welser.

Türing dynasty of master builders: Innsbruck becomes a cosmopolitan city

Siegmund der Münzreiche was the one who brought Niklas Türing (1427 - 1496) to Innsbruck in the 15th century. He made his first documented appearance in 1488. The Türings were a family of stonemasons and master builders from what is now Swabia, which at the time was part of the Habsburg Monarchy as part of Vorderösterreich. Innsbruck had been the royal seat of the Tyrolean princes for several decades, but the architectural splendour had not yet arrived north of the Alps. The city was a collection of wooden houses and not very prestigious. Golden times were dawning for craftsmen and master builders, which were to gather even more momentum under Maximilian. There was a real building boom. Aristocrats wanted to have a residence in the city in order to be as close as possible to the centre of power. In the days before the press, a functioning postal system, fax and e-mail, politics was mainly played out through direct contact.

The Türings made a career in step with the city. It is reported from 1497 that Niklas Türing was in the service of the sovereign as a "paid court mason". When he died in 1517 or 1518, it is not known for certain, he was listed on his gravestone as "Roman imperial majesty's chief foreman" is the title. Together with his son Gregor, he was listed as a master stonemason. This enabled the Türings to acquire citizenship in Innsbruck. By 1506 at the latest, they had a house in the workers' and craftsmen's neighbourhood Anbruggen. In 1509, they were able to acquire the house of today's Gasthof zum Lamm in Mariahilfstraße. Further property was added at what is now Schlossergasse 21.

In the course of the late Middle Ages, the early Gothic period and later the Renaissance gave Europe a new architectural guise with a new understanding of architecture and aesthetics. Buildings such as Notre Dame or the Minster of York set the trend that would characterise the whole of Europe until the onset of the Baroque period. Pointed towers, ribbed vaults, bay windows and playful carvings depicting everyday courtly life are some of the typical features that make the heterogeneous style recognisable. The work of the Türings can be traced particularly well in the old town centre. Many of the town houses, such as the Trautsonhaus still have Gothic ground plans, inner courtyards and carvings.

The Türings left their mark on Gothic Innsbruck in the transitional period between the Middle Ages and early modern times. Thanks to their training, they combined an eye for the big picture and details in their building projects. They were known for their particularly fine stonework, which resulted in ornate portals, arcades, staircases and vaults. They produced relief jewellery with patterns in the typical style of Renaissance art. Grotesques, vases and depictions of animals were typical ways of decorating bay windows and smooth walls. The symmetrical arrangement of the individual elements is also a characteristic of the period.

Niklas Türing is the Goldene Dachl to a large extent. He also created the statue of the Burgriesen Haidla particularly tall member of Siegmund's bodyguard, which can be seen today in the city tower. Emperor Maximilian held him in such high esteem that he allowed him to display the family coat of arms of the Türings and his wife, a fountain and a fish, in the vault of the Goldenen Dachls to immortalise him. His son Gregor immortalised himself with the Trautsonhaus in der Herzog-Friedrich-Straße und am Burgriesenhaus in the Domgasse. The last of the Türings to have an influence on the Innsbruck building scene was Niklas Türing the Younger, who began planning the Hofkirche together with Andrea Crivelli. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the influence of the Gothic style began to wane, especially in what is now Austria. Churches in particular were increasingly remodelled and rebuilt in the Baroque style as part of the Counter-Reformation. Today, Türingstraße in the east of Innsbruck is a reminder of the early modern dynasty of master builders.