Mariahilfzeile & Marketplace
Mariahilfstraße / Herzog-Siegmund-Ufer 1
Worth knowing
The Mariahilfzeile is one of Innsbruck's landmarks. Together with the River Inn and the Nordkette mountain range in the background, it forms a unique ensemble. The colourful houses seen from the market square across the Inn are among the most popular photo motifs, both among locals and tourists. Most of the buildings have been rebuilt or renovated over time in the Baroque style, but many of the houses still have Gothic interiors and structures from the 12th and 13th centuries.
Der Platz an der Innbrücke, wo sich heute das Metropol Kino befindet, war ein Verkehrsknotenpunkt und ein beliebter Treffpunkt außerhalb der Stadtmauern. An der Ecke Höttinger Gasse / Innstraße kann man ein Marterl des Gekreuzigten mit Maria und Johannes aus dem frühen 15. Jahrhundert bewundern, dass den Handelsleuten als Wegweiser und Treffpunkt diente. Auch der Heilige Nikolaus ist Teil dieser sehenswerten Skulptur, die als eine der ältesten erhaltenen der Stadt gilt. Seit dem 16. Jahrhundert entwickelten sich entlang dieser Handelsroute viele Gasthäuser und Betriebe. Einige davon gibt es noch heute. Der Gasthof zum Weißen Lamm zum Beispiel bot Reisenden schon 1688 seine Dienste an, das Hotel Mondschein proudly bears the year 1473 on its beautiful street sign. Craftsmen also settled along the busy trade route to offer their services to travellers passing through. The façade of the house at Mariahilferstraße 14 shows a blacksmith at work.
In 1809, Tyrolean insurgents launched attacks from Mariahilf against the Bavarian troops stationed in Innsbruck. Riflemen entrenched themselves in the houses and took the town under fire. The Mariahilfzeile had become a fortress, but was hardly affected. More devastating were the air raids during the Second World War. Fortunately, it was decided to renovate the affected buildings to their original appearance instead of rebuilding them as in other neighbourhoods. The block owes its strangely concerted appearance to this renovation. The varied colour scheme from the 1950s and the uniform height of the four- and five-storey buildings are the reason for the special aesthetics of the oldest part of Innsbruck.
The best view of the Mariahilfzeile with its colourful houses is from the market square. For a long time, the market was located within the city walls in front of the Golden Roof. Although there was also agriculture within the city walls, it was nowhere near enough to supply the city's population. Farmers from the surrounding communities offered their goods for sale at the market. The organisation of the market was regulated and controlled by the town council, as were the goods on offer. In the 16th century, the weekly market moved to Rennplatz in front of the Hofburg. It was not until the 17th century that Innsbruck's weekly market was moved outside the city gates due to a lack of space and settled on the Innrain.
Die Markthalle in ihrem heutigen Aussehen entstand unter Eduard Klingler und Jakob Albert, den beiden wichtigsten städtischen Beamten unter Bürgermeister Wilhelm Greil. Die Markthalle war eine Reaktion auf wiederkehrende Proteste aus der Bevölkerung auf die rapide steigenden Lebensmittelpreise seit den 1870er Jahren. 1912 fasste der Innsbrucker Gemeinderat den Plan, eine öffentliche Großmarkthalle neben der ehemaligen Fleischbank am Innrain zu errichten, wo ein Fleischgroßmarkt untergebracht wurde. Die Markthalle sollte gemeinsam mit dem 1910 in Betrieb genommenen Schlachthof im Saggen Preise, Hygiene und Verfügbarkeit von Lebensmitteln in Innsbruck revolutionieren.
Geplant wurde die ältere, mittlerweile denkmalgeschützte Halle von Fritz Konzert. Ein Viertel der Bausumme der Markthalle wurde für die aufwändige Kühlhalle aufgewandt. Die Fassade der alten Markthalle ist etwas verbaut, vom Herzog-Siegmund-Ufer aus aber noch immer ein sehenswertes Relikt aus den letzten Tagen der Monarchie. Der östliche, moderne Teil wurde 1960 angebaut. Was heutzutage ein hipper Foodmarket für Besserverdiener ist, war bei der Errichtung, als es noch keine Supermärkte gab, ein wichtiger Versorgungspunkt für die Innsbrucker Bevölkerung. Heute finden am Marktplatz regelmäßig Sportveranstaltungen und Events wie der Christkindl- oder der Fischmarkt statt.
Eduard Klingler: The master builder of expansion
If Wilhelm Greil is considered the mayor of the extension, the Viennese-born Eduard Klingler (1861 - 1916) probably deserves the title of its architect. Klingler had a major influence on the cityscape of Innsbruck. He began working for the state of Tyrol in 1883. In 1889 he joined the municipal building authority, becoming its head in 1902. During this period of economic boom, the city began to expand. The two previously independent neighbouring communities of Pradl and Wilten were incorporated in 1904, which contributed massively to its growth. From 1880 to 1900, Innsbruck's population "only" grew from 20,000 to 26,000 inhabitants, while Wilten tripled from 4,000 to 12,000.
The rapid increase in population presented the city administration with major challenges. In addition to the quantitative growth caused by the expansion of the city, Innsbruck also "grew" qualitatively in terms of people's quality of life. The city pushed ahead with building activity. Gas, water and electricity began to become standard. Schools and kindergartens had to be built for the new residents. The demands on medicine and thus the clinic grew. In Innsbruck, the commercial academy, the Leitgebschule, the Pradl cemetery, the dermatological clinic on the hospital grounds, the municipal kindergarten in Michael-Gaismair-Straße, the Trainkaserne (note: today a residential building) and the Tyrolean State Conservatory are on Klingler's account as head of the municipal building department. The Ulrichhaus on Mount Isel, which today houses the Alt-Kaiserjäger-Club, is a building in the local style that is well worth seeing.
The first free elections to the Imperial Council for all male citizens in 1907 changed the social rules of the game. The housing that was built in the working-class neighbourhoods was a reflection of a new society. Workers and employees with political voting rights had different needs than subjects without this right. Unlike in rural Tyrol, where farming families and their servants lived in farmhouses as a clan, life in the city came close to the family life we know today. The lifestyle of city dwellers demanded multi-room flats.
However, the social divide manifested itself not only in the functionality of the flats, but also in the architecture. In keeping with the spirit of the time, the projects were designed in the styles of historicism, classicism and Heimatstil. Until the outbreak of the First World War, clear forms, masks, statues and columns were style-defining elements in the design of new buildings. The ideas that architects had of classical Greece and ancient Rome were realised in a sometimes wild mix. Not only public buildings, but also large apartment blocks and even entire streets such as Sonnenburgstraße, Grillparzerstraße, Stafflerstraße, Kaiser-Josef-Straße and Claudiastraße reflect the style of the time.
The Counts of Andechs and the foundation of Innsbruck
The 12th century brought economic, scientific and social prosperity and is regarded as a kind of early medieval renaissance. Via the Crusades, there was an increased exchange with the cultures of the Middle East, which were more developed in many respects. Arab scholars brought translations of Greek thinkers such as Aristotle to Europe via southern Spain and Italy. Roman law was rediscovered at the first universities south of the Alps. New agricultural knowledge and a favourable climate, which was to last until the middle of the 14th century, made it possible for towns and larger settlements to emerge. One of these settlements was located north of the Wilten monastery between the Inn and the Nordkette mountain range.
After the disappearance of the Western Roman Empire and its administration, various Germanic tribes such as the Ostrogoths and Franks took control of the area that is now Innsbruck. They left ecclesiastical institutions and structures in place to administer the area, as clerics were often the only scribes. A small upper class of armoured aristocrats ruled in a strict hierarchy over the majority of the population, who worked in agriculture in 90%.
In the 6th century, there was increasing Bavarian settlement in the Inn Valley. During the reign of Charlemagne (ca. 748 - 814), the dukes of Bavaria became feudatories of the German kings, whose empire extended over large parts of central Europe and northern Italy. The Breton-Romanised population was displaced after minor conflicts. However, parts of the Christianised culture of the Heiligen Römischen Reichs. Politically, the importance of the North Tyrolean region was mainly limited to the transit sector.
Tyrol had two low Alpine crossings, the Reschen Pass and the Brenner Pass, which were important for the imperial connection between the German lands in the north and the lands in Italy. In 1024, the Salian Conrad II, a rival of the Bavarian dukes from the House of Wittelsbach, was elected king. In order to bring these two Alpine crossings away from his Bavarian rivals and under the control of the imperial church, which was loyal to him, Conrad II granted the territory of Tyrol as a fief to the bishops of Brixen and Trento in 1027. The bishops in turn needed so-called bailiffs to administer these lands and administer justice.
These bailiffs of the Bishop of Brixen were the Counts of Andechs. The Andechs family may be overshadowed today by the Guelphs, Hohenstaufen, Wittelsbach and Habsburg dynasties, but they were an influential family in the High Middle Ages. They came from the area around Lake Ammer in Bavaria and owned estates in Upper Bavaria between the Lech and Isar rivers and east of Munich. Through skilful marriage politics, they had acquired the titles of Dukes of Merania, a region on the Dalmatian coast, and Margraves of Istria. They thus rose in rank within the Heiligen Römischen Reiches on. In the 12th century, they founded the Dießen monastery and the monastery on the holy mountain of Andechs above Lake Ammersee to ensure both administration and later salvation. In 1165, Otto V of Andechs came to the bishop's see in Brixen and gave the bailiwick over this high monastery to his brother. From then on, they administered the central part of the Inn Valley, the Wipp Valley, the Puster Valley and the Eisack Valley.
Today, Innsbruck stretches along both sides of the Inn. In the 12th century, this area was under the influence of two lords of the manor. South of the Inn, Wilten Abbey exercised lordship. The area north of the river was under the administration of the Andechs. While the southern part of the town around the monastery was used for agriculture from an early stage, the alluvial area of the unregulated watercourse could not be cultivated before the High Middle Ages and was sparsely populated.
The Inn Valley was densely wooded and wild. Most of the people at that time worked in agriculture, which was run by their landlord. They lived in poor huts made of mud and wood. There was hardly any medical care outside the towns, infant mortality was high and hardly anyone lived past the age of 50. Around the year 1133, the Andechs founded the market here Anbruggen and connected the northern and southern banks of the Inn via a bridge. The construction of the bridge turned the unusable agricultural land at the foot of the Nordkette mountain range into a trading centre. It greatly facilitated the movement of goods in the Eastern Alps. The Brenner route had become more interesting thanks to one of the innovations of the medieval Renaissance: new harnesses made it possible to negotiate the steep climbs with carts. The shorter Via Raetia had the Via Claudia Augusta over the Reschen Pass as the main transport route across the Alps. The customs revenue generated from trade between the German and Italian towns allowed the settlement to prosper. Blacksmiths, innkeepers and craftsmen settled in the small market.
Anbruggen grew rapidly, but the space between the Nordkette and the Inn was limited. In 1180, Berchtold V of Andechs acquired a piece of land on the south side of the Inn from Wilten Monastery. This was the starting signal for Innsbruck. In the course of building the city wall, the Counts of Andechs had the Andechs Castle and moved their headquarters from Merano to Innsbruck. The new settlement also grew rapidly thanks to the customs revenue.
Sometime between 1187 and 1204, the people of Innsbruck were granted city rights. The official date of foundation is often taken as 1239, when the last count of the Andechs dynasty, Otto VIII, formally confirmed the town charter in a document.
Innsbruck was already the mint of the Andechs at this time and would probably have become the capital of their principality. But things turned out differently. In 1246, the Bavarian Wittelsbach dynasty, the Andechs' biggest rivals in southern Germany, destroyed their ancestral castle on Lake Ammersee. Otto, the last count of the House of Andechs-Merania, died without descendants in 1248. 12 years earlier, he had married Elisabeth, the daughter of Count Albert VIII of Tyrol. This noble family with its ancestral castle in Meran thus took over the fiefs and parts of the possessions, including the town on the Inn, as well as the arch-enemy with the Bavarian Wittelsbachs.
Wilhelm Greil: DER Bürgermeister Innsbrucks
Einer der wichtigsten Akteure der Stadtgeschichte war Wilhelm Greil (1850 – 1923). Von 1896 bis 1923 bekleidete der Unternehmer das Amt des Bürgermeisters, nachdem er vorher bereits als Vizebürgermeister die Geschicke der Stadt mitgestaltet hatte. Die zweite Hälfte des 19. Jahrhunderts war in der Politik vom Kampf liberaler und konservativer Kräfte geprägt. Die Konservativen hatten es, anders als im restlichen Tirol, schwer in Innsbruck, dessen Bevölkerung seit der Zeit Napoleons liberale Morgenluft geschnuppert hatte. Jede Seite hatte nicht nur Politiker, sondern auch Vereine und eigene Zeitungen. Steuern, Gesellschaftspolitik, Bildungswesen, Wohnbau und die Gestaltung des öffentlichen Raumes wurden mit Leidenschaft und Eifer diskutiert. Bedingt durch eine Wahlordnung, die auf das Stimmrecht über Vermögensklassen aufgebaut war, konnten nur etwa 10% der gesamten Innsbrucker Bevölkerung zur Wahlurne schreiten. Dabei galt das relative Wahlrecht innerhalb der drei Wahlkörper, was so viel heißt wie: The winner takes it all. Massenparteien wie die Sozialdemokraten konnten sich bis zur Wahlrechtsreform der Ersten Republik nicht durchsetzen. Bürgermeister wie Greil konnten auf 100% Rückhalt im Gemeinderat bauen, was die Entscheidungsfindung und Lenkung natürlich erheblich vereinfachte.
Greil belonged to the "Deutschen Volkspartei", a liberal and national-Great German party. What appears to us today as a contradiction, liberal and national, was a politically common and well-functioning pair of ideas in the 19th century. Pan-Germanism was not a political peculiarity of a radical right-wing minority, but rather a centrist trend, particularly in German-speaking cities of the Reich, which was important in varying forms through almost all parties until after the Second World War. Whoever issues the liberal Innsbrucker Nachrichten of the period around the turn of the century, you will find countless articles in which the common ground between the German Reich and the German-speaking countries was made the topic of the day.
Greil was a skilful politician who operated within the predetermined power structures of his time. He knew how to skilfully manoeuvre around the traditional powers, the monarchy and the clergy, and how to come to terms with them. Under him, the city purchased land with foresight in the spirit of the merchant in order to make projects possible. Under Wilhelm Greil, Innsbruck expanded considerably. Albert Gruber gave a warning speech on this growth in 1907, in which he warned against uncontrolled growth in urban planning and land speculation.
"It is the most difficult and responsible task facing our city fathers. Up until the 1980s (note: 1880), let's say in view of our circumstances, a certain slow pace was maintained in urban expansion. Since the last 10 years, however, it can be said that cityscapes have been expanding at a tremendous pace. Old houses are being torn down and new ones erected in their place. Of course, if this demolition and construction is carried out haphazardly, without any thought, only for the benefit of the individual, then disasters, so-called architectural crimes, usually occur. In order to prevent such haphazard building, which does not benefit the general public, every city must ensure that individuals cannot do as they please: the city must set a limit to unrestricted speculation in the area of urban expansion. This includes above all land speculation."
Der Politiker Greil konnte sich bei den großen Bauprojekten der Zeit auf die Beamten und Stadtplaner Eduard Klingler, Jakob Albert und Theodor Prachensky stützen. Eine weitere Bebauung mit Einzelhäusern war wegen des Bevölkerungswachstums nicht mehr möglich. 1898 wurde beschlossen, östlich der Claudiastraße nur noch Wohnblöcke anstatt der geordneten Villen im Cottage Stil der Jahrzehnte nach 1850 zu bauen. Auch Infrastrukturprojekte wie das neue Rathaus in der Maria-Theresienstraße 1897, die Hungerburgbahn 1906 und die Karwendelbahn were realised. Other projects included the renovation of the market square and the construction of the market hall.
Vieles, was in der zweiten Hälfte des 19. Jahrhunderts vorangetrieben wurde, gehört heute zum Alltag. Für die Menschen dieser Zeit waren diese Dinge aber eine echte Sensation und lebensverändernd. Die vier Jahrzehnte zwischen der Wirtschaftskrise 1873 und dem Ersten Weltkrieg von einem nie dagewesenen Wirtschaftswachstum und einer rasenden Modernisierung gekennzeichnet. Die Wirtschaft der Stadt boomte. Betriebe in Pradl und Wilten gründeten sich und lockten Arbeitskräfte an. Auch der Tourismus brachte frisches Kapital in die Stadt. Die Ansammlung an Menschen auf engstem Raum unter teils prekären Hygieneverhältnissen brachte gleichzeitig aber auch Probleme mit sich. Besonders die Randbezirke der Stadt wurden immer wieder von Typhus heimgesucht.
His predecessor, Mayor Heinrich Falk (1840 - 1917), had already contributed significantly to the modernisation of the town and the settlement of Saggen. Since 1859, the lighting of the city with gas pipelines had progressed steadily. Between 1887 and 1891, Innsbruck was equipped with a modern high-pressure water pipeline, which could also be used to supply flats on higher floors with fresh water. Wilhelm Greil arranged for the gas works in Pradl and the electricity works in Mühlau to be taken over into municipal ownership. The street lighting was converted to electric light.
Greil was able to secure Innsbrucker Renaissance on patrons from the town's middle classes. Baron Johann von Sieberer donated the old people's asylum and the orphanage in Saggen. Leonhard Lang donated the building, previously used as a hotel, to which the town hall moved from the old town in 1897, in return for the town's promise to build a home for apprentices.
In his last years in office, Greil accompanied Innsbruck through the transition from the Habsburg Monarchy to the Republic, a period characterised above all by hunger, misery, scarcity of resources and insecurity. He was 68 years old when Italian troops occupied the city after the First World War and Tyrol was divided at the Brenner Pass, which was particularly bitter for him as a representative of German nationalism.
In 1928, former mayor Greil died as an honorary citizen of the city of Innsbruck at the age of 78. Wilhelm-Greil-Straße was named after him during his lifetime.
Air raids on Innsbruck
Like the course of the city's history, its appearance is also subject to constant change. The years around 1500 and between 1850 and 1900, when political, economic and social changes took place at a particularly rapid pace, produced particularly visible changes in the cityscape. However, the most drastic event with the greatest impact on the cityscape was probably the air raids on the city during the Second World War.
In addition to the food shortage, people suffered from what the National Socialists called the "Heimatfront" in the city were particularly affected by the Allied air raids. Innsbruck was an important supply station for supplies on the Italian front.
The first Allied air raid on the ill-prepared city took place on the night of 15-16 December 1943. 269 people fell victim to the bombs, 500 were injured and more than 1500 were left homeless. Over 300 buildings, mainly in Wilten and the city centre, were destroyed and damaged. On Monday 18 December, the following were found in the Innsbrucker Nachrichten, dem Vorgänger der Tiroler Tageszeitung, auf der Titelseite allerhand propagandistische Meldungen vom erfolgreichen und heroischen Abwehrkampf der Deutschen Wehrmacht an allen Fronten gegenüber dem Bündnis aus Anglo-Amerikanern und dem Russen, nicht aber vom Bombenangriff auf Innsbruck.
Bombenterror über Innsbruck
Innsbruck, 17. Dez. Der 16. Dezember wird in der Geschichte Innsbrucks als der Tag vermerkt bleiben, an dem der Luftterror der Anglo-Amerikaner die Gauhauptstadt mit der ganzen Schwere dieser gemeinen und brutalen Kampfweise, die man nicht mehr Kriegführung nennen kann, getroffen hat. In mehreren Wellen flogen feindliche Kampfverbände die Stadt an und richteten ihre Angriffe mit zahlreichen Spreng- und Brandbomben gegen die Wohngebiete. Schwerste Schäden an Wohngebäuden, an Krankenhäusern und anderen Gemeinschaftseinrichtungen waren das traurige, alle bisherigen Schäden übersteigende Ergebnis dieses verbrecherischen Überfalles, der über zahlreiche Familien unserer Stadt schwerste Leiden und empfindliche Belastung der Lebensführung, das bittere Los der Vernichtung liebgewordenen Besitzes, der Zerstörung von Heim und Herd und der Heimatlosigkeit gebracht hat. Grenzenloser Haß und das glühende Verlangen diese unmenschliche Untat mit schonungsloser Schärfe zu vergelten, sind die einzige Empfindung, die außer der Auseinandersetzung mit den eigenen und den Gemeinschaftssorgen alle Gemüter bewegt. Wir alle blicken voll Vertrauen auf unsere Soldaten und erwarten mit Zuversicht den Tag, an dem der Führer den Befehl geben wird, ihre geballte Kraft mit neuen Waffen gegen den Feind im Westen einzusetzen, der durch seinen Mord- und Brandterror gegen Wehrlose neuerdings bewiesen hat, daß er sich von den asiatischen Bestien im Osten durch nichts unterscheidet – es wäre denn durch größere Feigheit. Die Luftschutzeinrichtungen der Stadt haben sich ebenso bewährt, wie die Luftschutzdisziplin der Bevölkerung. Bis zur Stunde sind 26 Gefallene gemeldet, deren Zahl sich aller Voraussicht nach nicht wesentlich erhöhen dürfte. Die Hilfsmaßnahmen haben unter Führung der Partei und tatkräftigen Mitarbeit der Wehrmacht sofort und wirkungsvoll eingesetzt.
Diese durch Zensur und Gleichschaltung der Medien fantasievoll gestaltete Nachricht schaffte es gerade mal auf Seite 3. Prominenter wollte man die schlechte Vorbereitung der Stadt auf das absehbare Bombardement wohl nicht dem Volkskörper präsentieren. Ganz so groß wie 1938 nach dem Anschluss, als Hitler am 5. April von 100.000 Menschen in Innsbruck begeistert empfangen worden war, dürfte die Begeisterung für den Nationalsozialismus nicht mehr gewesen sein. Zu groß waren die Schäden an der Stadt und die persönlichen, tragischen Verluste in der Bevölkerung. Im Jänner 1944 begann man Luftschutzstollen und andere Schutzmaßnahmen zu errichten. Die Arbeiten wurden zu einem großen Teil von Gefangenen des Konzentrationslagers Reichenau durchgeführt.
Innsbruck was attacked a total of twenty-two times between 1943 and 1945. Almost 3833, i.e. almost 50%, of the city's buildings were damaged and 504 people died. Fortunately, the city was only the victim of targeted attacks. German cities such as Hamburg or Dresden were completely razed to the ground by the Allies with firestorms and tens of thousands of deaths within a few hours. Many buildings such as the Jesuit Church, Wilten Abbey, the Servite Church, the cathedral and the indoor swimming pool in Amraserstraße were hit.
Historic buildings and monuments received special treatment during the attacks. The Goldene Dachl was protected with a special construction, as was Maximilian's sarcophagus in the Hofkirche. The figures in the Hofkirche, the Schwarzen Mannderwere brought to Kundl. The Mother of Mercy, the famous picture from Innsbruck Cathedral, was transferred to Ötztal during the war.
The air-raid shelter tunnel south of Innsbruck on Brennerstrasse and the markings of houses with air-raid shelters with their black squares and white circles and arrows can still be seen today. In Pradl, where next to Wilten most of the buildings were damaged, bronze plaques on the affected houses indicate that they were hit by a bomb.