On the south-western outskirts of the city, the Mentlberg Castle and pilgrimage church are two little-noticed gems of Innsbruck's history. The ensemble has probably undergone the most changes of use and ownership of all. Aristocratic residence, place of pilgrimage, hotel, boarding school, barracks, sports centre - nowhere is Innsbruck as versatile as at the foot of the Wiltenberg.
The castle was given its current appearance in 1905. The French Prince Ferdinand of Bourbon-Orleans, Duke of Vendom, had acquired the castle 15 years earlier for himself and his wife Sophie, a sister of the Austrian Empress Elisabeth, as a hunting lodge, farm and holiday home. It was probably the location on the edge of the forest, close to the town in the middle of the Alps, that particularly appealed to the couple. Sissi, like her sister more fond of country life than the strict court etiquette of Vienna, was a frequent guest. Fully committed to the French high aristocracy, the prince had his estate remodelled in the spirit of historicism in the form of a Loire castle in order to have at least a small piece of home in the province of the German hereditary enemy. The neo-Gothic tower at the east end with its pyramid-shaped roof bears the coat of arms of the French aristocratic house.
In order to fully satisfy his and his Bavarian wife's rural desires, the Duke also acquired the so-called Lower FiggeThe site is now Sieglanger on the banks of the Inn, where he had stables, garages, a park with a greenhouse and a staff annex built.
However, the history of the estate goes back much further. It was first mentioned in 1305 as an estate of Wilten Abbey. The Courtyard on the Gallwiese comprised several hectares of land and the forest rights on the Wiltenberg. Elevated in front of the town, Mentlberg was ideal for a watchtower. Via beacons, so-called Chalk fire the town could be warned of approaching danger. The abbots of Wilten came here on summer holidays to spend the hot season away from monastery politics.
Heinrich Mentlberger, owner of today's Weinhaus Happ, town magistrate and mayor, acquired the estate from Wilten Abbey in 1485. The enterprising contemporary of Maximilian was elevated to the nobility by his sovereign as a member of the Imperial Council, which transformed Mentlberg from a country estate into the baronial noble estate that gave it its name.
Numerous changes of ownership within the aristocracy followed over the next few centuries before Leopold Lindner acquired the estate in 1884. Lindner did not come from the aristocracy, but his ancestors had made a considerable fortune with the Wilten-based company Rosenbachers Eidam as a supplier of court wax goods. Lindner saw the estate's tourism potential in this time of new beginnings and the gold rush of tourism. With Egerdach to the east and Mühlau to the north of the town, there were already two successful spa and bathing establishments near Innsbruck. A hotel boarding house was built in the count's ambience, where guests enjoyed treatments such as spruce needle, brine and mineral baths. After just six years, Mentlberg was sold to the French Duke of Vendome.
The First World War gave the estate a new use. Like Ambras Castle, Mentlberg also became a military hospital. Soldiers were treated in the lung sanatorium. Despite the renovation of the castle at public expense after the war, Duke Ferdinand von Bourbon-Orleans wanted to get rid of his Austrian property. In 1926, the province of Tyrol, an association of Innsbruck innkeepers led by the Hotel Grauer Bär as well as the Alpine Holzindustrie GmbH from Ljubljana for Mentlberg Castle and the associated property. Ljubljana had only recently ceased to be part of the Austrian monarchy and had become part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, but the economic ties had remained intact. The Yugoslavian company acquired the property for 400,000 schillings.
However, the plan to turn the castle into a hotel again failed after initial euphoria and high investments. Just two years later, the 70 hectares of land went to the state of Tyrol for 600,000 schillings. The Gallwiesenhof on the Mentlberg was to be transformed into a model estate for agricultural training purposes, with the castle serving as accommodation for the students and apprentices of the educational establishment. The bold plan to Lower Figge to build a bathing beach on the Inn never materialised. Instead, the land was used in the 1930s for the construction of the Dollfuß and fishermen's housing estate.
In 1932, the castle was to be used as a home for mothers and babies, but this proposal was rejected by the provincial parliament due to the overly ostentatious ambience. In the financially difficult times after the economic crisis, the provincial government decided to lease the castle as a hotel for 6,000 shillings in order to relieve the provincial budget.
The plan to organise the slalom of the 1933 World Ski Championships on the Mentlberg also failed, not because of finances but because of the snow conditions, at least in that year. The following year, the slopes next to the castle ""...the 40 best-placed downhill skiers in the Pfriemesköpfl - Mutters race... for the prize of honour of Federal Chancellor Dr Dollfuß...“
In the late 1930s and the post-war period, Mentlberg Castle was used for military and administrative purposes. After being used as a barracks by the Austrian army, it was the location of the Reich Labour Service. Under the law, young men and women were obliged to work as Soldiers of labour to take on charitable work. In addition to the educational and disciplinary component of this service as part of propaganda, the Nazi regime also succeeded in drastically reducing the unemployment figures in the areas newly annexed to the Reich in one fell swoop. After the war, the French occupying forces took up residence in the castle for a short time before it once again became a school and apprenticeship centre. After 2015, the building was used as a refugee centre. The province of Tyrol is currently converting Mentlberg into a centre for disaster control in compliance with the preservation order.
To the east of the castle is the Mentlberg pilgrimage church, a classic product of the Baroque period. An officer in the imperial army brought a statue of the Mother of God with the body of Jesus back to Tyrol from his deployment in the Thirty Years' War (1618 - 1648). Due to economic hardship and war, the 17th century was the heyday of Christian superstition, in which people attributed their personal fate to the intervention of saints. The soldier's father, Ferdinand von Khuepach, zu Ried, was the owner of Mentlberg Castle and decided to erect the wooden figure in the small chapel on his estate. Similar to the Tummelplatz, the "Sorrowful mother on the Gallwiese" miraculous healings here too. Wilten Abbey reacted quickly to promote the pilgrimage. The abbot had seven picture pillars erected along the path from Wilten to Mentlberg and renovated the ageing chapel. The Seven Sleepers, an ancient legend of seven young martyrs from Ephesus, were particularly revered as intercessors in cases of high fever and insomnia. The abbot of Wilten Abbey therefore had a depiction of the grotto in which the seven boys were imprisoned erected in the chapel.
In the 18th century, Mentlberg had become a veritable place of pilgrimage. In 1770, the rococo-style church, which still exists today, was built according to plans by Konstantin Johann Walter, who was also the architect of the Triumphal Gate and the remodelling of the Hofburg. The Grotto of the Seven Sleepers was integrated into the new church, as were the altarpiece of the Mother of Mercy and the wooden sculpture. Votive images still bear witness to the pious citizens' belief in miracles.
Today, the church on Mentlberg is extremely popular with wedding couples due to its pleasant size, the beautiful baroque interior and the view of the city of Innsbruck.