Innsbruck is the self-proclaimed capital of the Alps. There may be disagreement about the title of capital city, Grenoble, Turin, Trento, Bern - many other cities could also lay claim to it. However, Innsbruck holds a special place in this ranking thanks to its encircled location between the surrounding mountains and the city's direct connection to them. The highest point in the city is the summit of the Praxmarerkarspitze at 2642 metres above sea level. The mountain world has always been a lively and important part of the city, even before the days of tourism. The quarry was the supplier of the Höttinger Breccie, which was the basis for Innsbruck's buildings until the 20th century. Innsbruck had its own vineyards on the slopes of the Nordkette until the early 16th century, albeit with low yields.
Together with the Panorama Building and the old Chain Bridge, the railway to Hungerburg formed the modern centre of the city at the beginning of the 20th century. Like the other two sights, it too met the fate of all earthly things. The majestic Chain Bridge was replaced by a more modern reinforced concrete bridge in 1939 and the panorama building has been empty since 2011. In 2005, the Hungerburg railway was also taken out of service. 101 years earlier, it had been the number one topic of conversation in the Innsbruck news as a link between Innsbruck and the newly created district above the city, which was designed as a luxury and tourist resort:
„The Hungerburgbahn opened this morning at 7 a.m. - not exactly favoured by the best weather. Trains run every quarter of an hour until 10 o'clock in the evening. It seems that the local population is particularly interested in the new railway, which is the first cable car in North Tyrol. Yesterday, an internal evening at the Hotel Mariabrunn brought together representatives of the company, the construction management, the "Union", the municipal power station and the press for a cheerful get-together. Engineer Innerebner commemorated the creator of the railway, Mr Riehl, who is currently taking a cure in Karlovy Vary ... Works inspector Twerdy has taken over the management of the plant. Six and a half years ago, he only took over the local railway Innsbruck - Hall; since then, he has taken over four railways of all systems: the low mountain railway, the Stubai valley railway, the electric tramway and now the cable railway to the Hungerburg.“
The first funicular railways went into operation in Europe around 1880. Innsbruck was also to receive its own, somewhat belatedly. It was tourism and transport pioneer Josef Riehl who saw the potential in connecting the city and the mountains. He planned Hungerburg, today Innsbruck's most expensive neighbourhood, as a climatic health resort close to the city. An artificial lake in the former quarry was intended to sweeten the guests' stay. Old photos of the Hotel Seehof zeigen eine idyllische Postkartenwelt. Die Aussichtswarte steht heute noch erhaben über Innsbruck. Das für den Kurtourismus eröffnete Hotel Mariabrunn an den Hängen der Nordkette erweckte den Charme eines noblen Schlösschens oberhalb der Stadt. Ein paar Schritte westlich der Station Hungerburg erinnert das Gasthaus zur Linde with its remarkable façade including a depiction of the Mrs Hitt still remember this time.
For a long time, the railway was the only connection between Hungerburg and Innsbruck. It was not until 1926 that the Höttinger Höhenstraße was built, starting at the Höttinger church. In 2005, the Hungerburg railway, which still has many nostalgic fans and lovers of historic means of transport and trains, was closed. Despite several appeals from the local population, the railway was closed down. The steel truss bridge over the Inn and the tamped concrete viaduct in the upper section of the railway were preserved. Today, you can board the Nordkettenbahn at the Kongresshaus in the centre of the city and reach the Hafele Kar at an altitude of 2256 m in no time at all. The stations of the new railway at the Löwenhaus, Alpenzoo and Hungerburg were designed by star architect Zaha Hadid in a breathtakingly futuristic design.
The cable car to the Nordkette was opened in 1928, the same year as its equivalent on the southern side of the Inn Valley on the Patscherkofel. The world's first cable car had gone into operation just 20 years earlier in Grindelwald, Switzerland. The breathtaking project in the Tyrolean capital included the valley station on the Hungerburg, the middle station on the Seegrube and the mountain station on the Hafele Kar in the high alpine area. The previously unknown Franz Baumann won the tender. He turned away from the predominant styles of the 19th century, classicism, Heimatstil and historicism. He wanted the buildings to blend into the landscape and merge with it rather than detract from it. Baumann knew how to harmoniously combine the functional stations with machine houses and entry and exit zones with the catering areas. The middle station on the Seegrube is home to a restaurant and hotel. He attached great importance to the terrace. The view of the city, the Wipptal valley and mountains such as Nockspitze und Serles are breathtaking.
The mountain station on the Hafele Kar is particularly spectacular, nestling against the rocks like an eagle's nest and providing space for an inn in the shape of a quarter circle. Baumann designed both the building and the interior. Traditional alpine hospitality with tiled stoves meets modern furniture such as the now famous Baumann chair. Clemens Holzmeister, the internationally best-known architect of Tyrolean modernism, outed himself as a fan of the Nordkettenbahn in a 1929 technical article:
"The railway starts at the so-called Hungerburg plateau (300 metres above Innsbruck). The station is characterised by its simple integration into the forest area and a particularly remarkable staircase. The intermediate station at Seegrube (1905 metres above sea level) lacks the unity of the layout ... due to subsequent extensions, but appears splendidly positioned in front of the rocky cirque of the Seegrube peaks. The final station (2,256 metres above sea level) is the most successful in its integration into the wild Zipfelschrofen. Everything has been taken into consideration and the naturalness has a liberating effect."
As far as possible, both the interior and the exterior of the middle and top stations were preserved during the renovation in 2007.
In den 1930er Jahren wurde auf der Nordkette Wissenschaftsgeschichte geschrieben. Victor Franz Hess veranlasste 1931 die Einrichtung eines Labors in einer aufgelassenen Baubaracke auf dem Hafele Kar in 2300 m Seehöhe, um dort ein Labor für Ultrastrahlenforschung zum Studium der kosmischen Strahlung zu betreiben. 1936 erhielt er dafür den Nobelpreis für Physik.
On the western side of the Nordkette (Note: seen from the city on the left), a striking mountain peak rises up. With a little imagination, this rock formation resembles a woman on a horse. This figure is the inspiration for the best-known legend of the Innsbruck region, which made it into the famous Grimm brothers' catalogue of stories in the 19th century. It is about the stingy, hard-hearted and greedy giant queen Mrs Hitt. While playing, her son fell into a bog along with his expensive clothes and came home filthy from top to bottom. Mrs Hitt got a servant to bathe the boy in milk and clean him up with white bread. Later, the queen met a beggar woman who begged the rich woman on horseback for bread. Instead of alms, Mrs Hitt handed her a stone. As a result, an earthquake caused her palace to collapse, a mudslide buried her lands and, as punishment, Mrs Hitt was transformed into the stone pillar that is still clearly visible above the town today. Innsbruck's children have grown up with this legend, whose moral is a warning against arrogance and extravagance, for generations.