Weinhaus Happ

Herzog-Friedrich-Straße 14

Worth knowing

The Weinhaus Happ was already supplying locals and visitors with the eponymous grape juice in the 15th century. Innsbruck has always been an important base for the wine trade to the north. The city is located on the imaginary border between the beer and wine regions. In cooler northern Europe, people mainly drank beer, while in the Mediterranean countries they drank the wine that thrived there. Innsbruck, as a trading city between Italy and Germany, was a centre of trade from north and south of this border. Wine-beer line influenced. For a long time, wine was not an intoxicating drink, but a foodstuff. While water from wells could not be trusted in the Middle Ages, especially in large cities, wine was tolerable. Wine was lighter than it is today, so people in the Middle Ages and early modern times were not constantly drunk.

In 1783, the building first appeared as a pub under the brewer Martin Juffing. After numerous changes of ownership, Franz Happ took over the pub in 1874. Like many other buildings in the old town, the Weinhaus Happ were in a miserable state at the time. Unlike today, old buildings steeped in history did not correspond to the public's taste, but were considered outdated. After the façade collapsed, it had to be completely renovated.

Maria Schwarz took over the Happ in 1921. As in many other pubs, theatre plays were performed in the inn right next to the Golden Roof. Little by little, it became an Innsbruck institution.

In 1927, the pub's parlour was redesigned according to the plans of the then unknown architect Franz Baumann (1892 - 1974). The challenge was to renovate and modernise the building without disturbing the townscape. For a year, the Tyrolean Heritage Protection Association, together with the district administration, had the final say on building projects in sensitive locations. Urban planning should not be created on the drawing board, but should take historical town centres into consideration. Baumann designed the façade in the cubic style of the Neuen Sachlichkeit, die kunstvoll geschnitzte, sehenswerte Eingangstür, das weit ausladende Hausschild, das Stiegenhaus, die Gasträume und das Mobiliar. Anstatt einer vollvertäfelten Stube setzte er den Werkstoff Holz sparsamer ein. Es gelang ihm durch die Verwendung neuer Materialien den Tiroler Stil und die Gemütlichkeit der traditionellen Gaststube in die Moderne zu führen, ohne ihn zu verraten. Der mittelachsige Erker war ein beliebtes Stilelement dieser Zeit, das von Prachensky auch beim Entwurf des Gebäudes über dem Durchgang zur Sparkasse in der Maria-Theresien-Straße und seinen Großprojekten immer wieder zum Einsatz gebracht wurde. Die sich darin befindliche Stube wurde nach dem Aufstieg Baumanns zu einem der führenden Architekten seiner Zeit liebevoll in Baumannstube umbenannt.

The façade paintings of the Weinhaus Happ date from the interwar period. The South Tyrolean peasant motifs, including an image of St Urban, the patron saint of winegrowers, were created by Erich Torggler in 1937. The different climatic conditions north and south of the main Alpine ridge resulted in different types of cultivation. While wine in the south was primarily an export commodity, North Tyrol had to import both wine and wheat. The interests of the farmers in the individual regions were completely different when it came to customs duties. The sovereign had to constantly strike a fine balance in order to satisfy all interests and necessities as best as possible. The Weinhaus Happ can be seen as a symbol of the differences in agriculture between Tyrol north and Tyrol south of the Brenner Pass, while at the same time the unity of the country is still felt by many people today.

Franz Baumann und die Tiroler Moderne

The caesura of the First World War not only changed Innsbruck economically and socially, but also gave the city a new appearance. The visual arts reinvented themselves after the horrors of war. The classicism of the turn of the century was the architecture of a bourgeoisie that had tried to imitate the nobility. After the war, many citizens blamed this aristocracy for the horrors on the battlefields of Europe. Even before the war, sport and the phenomenon of leisure had become the expression of a new bourgeois self-image in contrast to the old order determined by the aristocracy. From now on, buildings and infrastructure were to serve every citizen equally. Aristocratic virtues and interest in classical antiquity had lost their lustre within a very short space of time.

The architects of the post-war period wanted to distinguish themselves from previous generations in terms of appearance, while at the same time maximising the functionality of the buildings. The end of the monarchy is reflected in the simplicity of the architecture. Lois Welzenbacher wrote about the architectural aberrations of this period in an article in the magazine Tiroler Hochland in 1920:

"As far as we can judge today, it is clear that the 19th century lacked the strength to create its own distinct style. It is the age of stillness... Thus details were reproduced with historical accuracy, mostly without any particular meaning or purpose, and without a harmonious overall picture that would have arisen from factual or artistic necessity."

Neue Formen der Gestaltung wie der Bauhausstil aus Weimar, Hochhäuser aus den USA und die Sowjetische Moderne aus der revolutionären UdSSR hielten Einzug in Design, Bauwesen und Handwerk. Die bekanntesten Tiroler Vertreter dieser neuen Art und Weise die Gestaltung des öffentlichen Raumes waren Siegfried Mazagg, Theodor Prachensky, Clemens Holzmeister und Lois Welzenbacher. Jeder dieser Architekten hatte seine Eigenheiten, wodurch die Tiroler Moderne nur schwer eindeutig zu definieren ist. Mit Bauwerken wie dem Elektrizitätswerk Innsbruck in der Salurnerstraße oder dem Adambräu beim Bahnhof entstanden markante Gebäude, nicht nur in ungeahnter Höhe, sondern auch in einem komplett neuen Stil. Bei aller Begeisterung für den Aufbruch in neue Zeiten spielte auch eine Gedankenströmung mit, die für uns Nachgeborene problematisch ist. Der Futurismus von Filippo Tommaso Marinetti übte nicht nur auf den italienischen Faschismus, sondern auch auf viele Vertreter der Kunst und Architektur der Moderne eine große Anziehungskraft aus.

Der bekannteste und im Innsbrucker Stadtbild am eindrücklichsten bis heute sichtbare Vertreter der sogenannten Tiroler Moderne war Franz Baumann (1892 – 1974). Baumann kam 1892 als Sohn eines Postbeamten in Innsbruck zur Welt. Der Theologe, Publizist und Kriegspropagandist Anton Müllner alias Bruder Willram wurde auf das zeichnerische Talent von Franz Baumann aufmerksam und ermöglichte dem jungen Mann mit 14 Jahren den Besuch der Staatsgewerbeschule, der heutigen HTL. Hier lernte er seinen späteren Schwager Theodor Prachensky kennen. Gemeinsam mit Baumanns Schwester Maria waren die beiden jungen Männer auf Ausflügen in der Gegend rund um Innsbruck unterwegs, um Bilder der Bergwelt und Natur zu malen. Während der Schulzeit sammelte er erste Berufserfahrungen als Maurer bei der Baufirma Huter & Söhne, die in Innsbruck für Großprojekte wie das Kloster zur Ewigen Anbetung oder die Kirche St. Nikolaus zuständig waren. 1910 folgte Baumann seinem Freund Prachensky nach Meran, um bei der Firma Musch & Lun zu arbeiten. Meran war damals Tirols wichtigster Tourismusort mit internationalen Kurgästen. Die vorrangigen Stile waren Jugendstil und Historismus. Unter dem Architekten Adalbert Erlebach machte er erste Erfahrungen bei der Planung von Großprojekten wie Hotels und Seilbahnen.

Like the majority of his generation, the First World War tore Baumann from his professional and everyday life. On the Italian front, he was shot in the stomach while fighting, from which he recovered in a military hospital in Prague. During this otherwise idle time, he painted cityscapes of buildings in and around Prague. These pictures, which would later help him to visualise his plans, were presented in his only exhibition in 1919.

After returning home from the war, Baumann worked at Grissemann & Walch and completed his professional qualification. Unlike Holzmeister or Welzenbacher, he had no academic training. In his spare time, he regularly took part in public tenders for public projects.

His big breakthrough came in the second half of the 1920s. Baumann was able to win the tenders for the remodelling of the Weinhaus Happ in the old town and the Nordkettenbahn railway. In addition to his creativity and ability to think holistically, he was also able to harmonise his approach with the legal situation and the requirements of the tenders of the 1920s. According to the federal constitution of the Republic of Austria, construction was a state matter. Since the previous year, the Tyrolean Heritage Protection Association gemeinsam mit der Bezirkshauptmannschaft als letztentscheidende Behörde bei Bauprojekten für Bewertung und Genehmigung zuständig. Kunibert Zimmeter hatte den Verein bereits 1908 gemeinsam mit Gotthard Graf Trapp gegründet. Zimmeter schrieb in seinem Buch „Unser Tirol. Ein Heimatschutzbuch“:

"Let us look at the flattening of our private lives, our amusements, at the centre of which, significantly, is the cinema, at the literary ephemera of our newspaper reading, at the hopeless and costly excesses of fashion in the field of women's clothing, let us take a look at our homes with the miserable factory furniture and all the dreadful products of our so-called gallantry goods industry, Things that thousands of people work to produce, creating worthless bric-a-brac in the process, or let us look at our apartment blocks and villas with their cement façades simulating palaces, countless superfluous towers and gables, our hotels with their pompous façades, what a waste of the people's wealth, what an abundance of tastelessness we must find there."

Natur und Ortsbilder sollten von allzu modischen Strömungen, überbordendem Tourismus und hässlichen Industriebauten geschützt werden. Bauprojekte sollten sich harmonisch, ansehnlich und zweckdienlich in die Umwelt eingliedern. Architekten mussten trotz der gesellschaftlichen und künstlerischen Neuerungen der Zeit den regionaltypischen Charakter mitdenken.

Nach dem ersten Weltkrieg entstand eine neue Kunden- und Gästeschicht, die neue Anforderungen an Gebäude und somit an das Baugewerbe richtete. In vielen Tiroler Dörfern hatten Hotels die Kirchen als größtes Bauwerk im Ortsbild abgelöst. Bergdörfer wie Igls, Seefeld oder St. Anton wurden vom Tourismus komplett umgestaltet, in Innsbruck entstand mit der Hungerburg ein neuer Stadtteil. Die aristokratische Distanz zur Bergwelt war einer bürgerlichen Sportbegeisterung gewichen. Das bedurfte neuer Lösungen in neuen Höhen. Man baute keine Grandhotels mehr auf 1500 m für den Kururlaub, sondern eine komplette Infrastruktur für Skisportler im hochalpinen Gelände wie der Nordkette. In seiner Zeit in Meran war Baumann schon mit dem Heimatschutzverband in Berührung gekommen. Genau hier lagen die Stärken seines Ansatzes des ganzheitlichen Bauens im Tiroler Sinne. Alle technischen Funktionen und Details, die Einbettung der Gebäude in die Landschaft unter Berücksichtigung der Topografie und des Sonnenlichtes spielten für ihn, der offiziell den Titel Architekt gar nicht führen durfte, eine Rolle. Er folgte damit den „Rules for those who build in the mountains" by the architect Adolf Loos from 1913:

Don't build picturesquely. Leave such effects to the walls, the mountains and the sun. The man who dresses picturesquely is not picturesque, but a buffoon. The farmer does not dress picturesquely. But he is...

Pay attention to the forms in which the farmer builds. For they are ancestral wisdom, congealed substance. But seek out the reason for the mould. If advances in technology have made it possible to improve the mould, then this improvement should always be used. The flail will be replaced by the threshing machine."

Baumann designed even the smallest details, from the exterior lighting to the furniture, and integrated them into his overall concept of the Tiroler Moderne in.

From 1927, Baumann worked independently in his studio in Schöpfstraße in Wilten. He repeatedly came into contact with his brother-in-law and employee of the building authority, Theodor Prachensky. From 1929, the two of them worked together to design the building for the new Hötting secondary school on Fürstenweg. Although boys and girls were still to be planned separately in the traditional way, the building was otherwise completely in keeping with the New Objectivity style in terms of form and furnishings, based on the principle of light, air and sun. In 1935 he managed the project Hörtnaglsiedlung in the west of the city.

In his heyday, he employed 14 people in his office. Thanks to his modern approach, which combined function, aesthetics and economical construction, he survived the economic crisis well. The 1,000-mark freeze that Hitler imposed on Austria in 1934 in order to put the Republic in financial difficulties heralded the slow decline of his architectural practice. Not only did the unemployment rate in tourism triple within a very short space of time, but the construction industry also ran into difficulties.

In 1935, Baumann became the shooting star of the Tyrolean architecture scene and was appointed head of the Central Association of Architects after he was finally allowed to use this professional title with a special licence. After the Anschluss in 1938, he quickly joined the NSDAP. On the one hand, he was probably not averse to the ideas of National Socialism, but on the other he was able to further his career as chairman of the Reich Chamber of Fine Arts in Tyrol. In this position, he courageously opposed the destructive furore with which those in power wanted to change Innsbruck's cityscape, which did not correspond to his idea of urban planning. The mayor of Innsbruck, Egon Denz, wanted to remove the Triumphal Gate and St Anne's Column in order to make more room for traffic in Maria-Theresienstraße. The city centre was still a transit area from the Brenner Pass in the south to reach the main road to the east and west on today's Innrain. At the request of Gauleiter Franz Hofer, a statue of Adolf Hitler as a German herald was to be erected in place of St Anne's Column. Hofer also wanted to have the church towers of the collegiate church blown up. Baumann's opinion on these plans was negative. When the matter made it to Albert Speer's desk, he agreed with him. From this point onwards, Baumann was no longer awarded any public projects by Gauleiter Hofer.

After being questioned as part of the denazification process, Baumann began working at the city building authority, probably on the recommendation of his brother-in-law Prachensky. Baumann was fully exonerated, among other things by a statement from the Abbot of Wilten, but his reputation as an architect could no longer be repaired. Moreover, his studio in Schöpfstraße had been destroyed by a bomb in 1944. In his post-war career, he was responsible for the renovation of buildings damaged by the war. Under his leadership, Boznerplatz with the Rudolfsbrunnen fountain was rebuilt as well as Burggraben and the new Stadtsäle (Note: today House of Music).

Franz Baumann died in 1974 and his paintings, sketches and drawings are highly sought-after and highly traded. The diverse public and private buildings and projects of the ever-smoking architect still characterise Innsbruck today.

The Tyrolean nation, "democracy" and the heart of Jesus

Many tyroleans see themselves as an own nation. With „Tirol isch lei oans“, „Zu Mantua in Banden“ and „Dem Land Tirol die Treue", the federal state has three more or less official anthems. As in other federal states, there are historical reasons for this pronounced local patriotism. Tyrolean freedom and independence are often invoked as a local shrine to underpin this. It is often referred to as the first democracy in mainland Europe, which is probably an exaggeration considering the feudal and hierarchical history of the country up until the 20th century. However, the country cannot be denied a certain peculiarity in its development, even if it was less about the participation of broad sections of the population and more about the local elites curtailing the power of the sovereign.

The first act was what the Innsbruck historian Otto Stolz (1881 - 1957) in the 1950s exuberantly described, in reference to English history, as the Magna Charta Libertatum celebrated. After the marriage of the Bavarian Ludwig von Wittelsbach to the Tyrolean princess Margarete von Tirol-Görz, the Bavarian Wittelsbachs were rulers of Tyrol for a short time. In order to win over the Tyrolean population to his side, Ludwig decided to offer the provincial estates a treat in the 14th century. In the Großen Freiheitsbrief of 1342, Louis promised the Tyroleans that he would not enact any laws or tax increases without first consulting the provincial estates. However, there can be no question of a democratic constitution as understood in the 21st century, as these provincial estates were primarily the aristocratic, landowning classes, who represented their interests accordingly. Although one copy of the document mentioned the inclusion of peasants as a class in the Diet, this version never became official.

Als im 15. Jahrhundert Städte und Bürgertum durch ihre wirtschaftliche Bedeutung mehr politisches Gewicht erlangten, entwickelte sich ein Gegengewicht zum Adel innerhalb der Landstände. Beim Landtag von 1423 unter Friedrich IV. trafen erstmals 18 Mitglieder des Adels auf 18 Mitglieder der Städte und der Bauernschaft. Nach und nach entwickelte sich in den Landtagen des 15. und 16. Jahrhundert eine feste Zusammensetzung. Vertreten waren die Tiroler Bischöfe von Brixen und Trient, die Äbte der Tiroler Klöster, der Adel, Vertreter der Städte und der Bauernschaft. Den Vorsitz hatte der Landeshauptmann. Natürlich waren die Beschlüsse und Wünsche des Landtags für den Fürsten nicht bindend, allerdings war es für den Regenten wohl ein beruhigendes Gefühl, wenn er die Vertreter der Bevölkerung auf seiner Seite wusste oder schwere Entscheidungen mitgetragen wurden. 

Another important document for the country was the Tiroler Landlibell. In 1511, Maximilian stipulated, among other things, that Tyrolean soldiers should only be called up for military service in defence of their own country. The reason for Maximilian's generosity was less his love for the Tyroleans than the need to keep the Tyrolean mines running instead of burning out the precious labourers and the peasantry that supplied them on the battlefields of Europe. The fact that in Landlibell At the same time, massive restrictions on the population and higher costs are often forgotten.

Dieses Tiroler Sonderrecht bei der Landesverteidigung war einer der Gründe für die Erhebung von 1809, als junge Tiroler bei der Mobilisierung der Streitkräfte im Rahmen der allgemeinen Wehrpflicht ausgehoben wurden. Bis heute prägen die Napoleonischen Kriege, als das katholische Kronland von den „gottlosen Franzosen“ und der revolutionären Gesellschaftsordnung bedroht wurde, das Tiroler Selbstverständnis. Bei diesem Abwehrkampf entstand ein Bund zwischen Katholizismus und Tirol. Die Tiroler Schützen vertrauten ihr Schicksal vor einer entscheidenden Schlacht im Kampf gegen Napoleons Armeen im Juni 1796 dem Herzen Jesu an und schlossen einen Bund mit Gott persönlich, der ihr Heiliges Land Tirol behüten sollte. Eine weitere identitätsstiftende Legende des Jahres 1796 rankt sich um eine junge Frau aus dem Dorf Spinges. Katharina Lanz, die als die Jungfrau von Spinges in die Landesgeschichte als identitätsstiftende Nationalheldin einging, soll die beinahe geschlagenen Tiroler Truppen mit ihrem herrischen Auftreten im Kampf solcherart motiviert haben, dass sie schlussendlich den Sieg über die französische Übermacht davontragen konnten. Je nach Darstellung soll sie mit einer Mistgabel, einem Dreschflegel oder einer Sense ähnlich der französischen Jungfrau Johanna von Orleans den Truppen Napoleons das Fürchten gelehrt haben. Legenden und Traditionen rund um die Schützen und das Gefühl, eine selbstständige und von Gott auserwählte Nation zu sein, die zufällig der Republik Österreich angehängt wurde, gehen auf diese Legenden zurück.

Die partikularen Identitäten der einzelnen Kronländer entsprachen nicht dem, was sich aufgeklärte Politik unter einem modernen Staatswesen vorstellten. Unter Maria Theresia erfuhr der Zentralstaat eine Stärkung gegenüber den Kronländern und dem lokalen Adel. Das Zugehörigkeitsgefühl der Untertanen sollte nicht dem Land Tirol, sondern dem Haus Habsburg gelten. Im 19. Jahrhundert wollte man die Identifikation mit der Monarchie stärken und ein Nationalbewusstsein entwickeln. Die Presse, Besuche der Herrscherfamilie, Denkmäler wie der Rudolfsbrunnen oder die Eröffnung des Berg Isels mit Hofer als kaisertreuem Tiroler sollten dabei helfen, die Bevölkerung in kaisertreue Untertanen zu verwandeln.

When the Habsburg Empire collapsed after the First World War, the crown land of Tyrol also broke up. What had been known as South Tyrol until 1918, the Italian-speaking part of the province between Riva on Lake Garda and Salurn in the Adige Valley, became Trentino with Trento as its capital. The German-speaking part of the province between Neumarkt and the Brenner Pass is now South Tyrol / Alto Adige, an autonomous region of the Republic of Italy with the capital Bolzano.

Throughout the centuries, Innsbruckers have felt themselves to be Tyroleans, Germans, Catholics and subjects of the emperor. Before 1945, however, hardly anyone felt Austrian. It was only after the Second World War that a sense of belonging to Austria slowly began to develop in Tyrol. To this day, however, many Tyroleans are proud of their local identity and like to distinguish themselves from the inhabitants of other federal states and countries. For many Tyroleans, after more than 100 years, the Brenner Pass still represents a Injustice limit even if the Europa der Regionen cooperates politically across borders at EU level.

The legend of the Holy Landthe independent Tyrolean nation and first mainland democracy persists to this day. The fact that the historic crown land of Tyrol was a multi-ethnic construct with Italians, Ladins, Cimbri and Rhaeto-Romans is often overlooked in right-wing circles. Laws from the federal capital of Vienna or even the EU in Brussels are still viewed with scepticism today. Nationalists on both sides of the Brenner Pass still make use of the Jungfrau von Spingesthe heart of Jesus and Andreas Hofer, to publicise their concerns. The Säcularfeier des Bundes Tirols mit dem göttlichen Herzen Jesu was still celebrated in the 20th century with great participation from the political elite. The bon mot "bisch a Tiroler bisch a Mensch, bisch koana, bisch a Oasch" summarises Tyrolean nationalism succinctly.